I wasn't a big fan of this climb. From the bottom the line looks awesome, an overhanging arete, but as I climbed, it felt really contrived. Some of the bolt placements are awkward, especially the bolt protecting the crux, which is about 4 feet away from the arete - since you are climbing on the arete at that point, you get some really awkward and painful falls. Also, there's a key left hand below the crux that is getting very loose, and will require epoxying soon. On the plus side, you can move around the arete to super easy climbing and slop your way (like I did the first time) up to the chains to avoid leaving draws on the route. Also, I've never seen anyone working any routes on the Adjective, to you have the climbs to yourself.
Route is the farthest right line on the Adjective wall. Lower off (there isn't a walkoff)
|By Nic Hoggan|
From: Provo, Ut
Jan 2, 2010
Contrived is the right word for this route. The route is only a 5.11c or whatever if you don't grab the holds that are well within reach, just on the other side of the arete. Plus I'm bitter that I couldn't send the stupid thing.
|By Clark Aegerter 1|
From: Orem, Utah
May 7, 2014
Does anyone have more info on the "proper" way or what counts as the climb? I was on this yesterday and if you are not using the holds just past the arÍte this is not 11c feeling.
|By Eric Mercer|
Jun 2, 2014
I do not find this route "contrived", and in fact, it feels a lot like the arete on Yuji's Feet on Black Rose which is also 11c. It is even bolted in a manner very reminiscent of Yuji's with the bolts somewhat in from the arete.
I personally found this arete to be stiffer than Yuji's given its length, and the bolts through the crux are spaced generously apart adding to some of the excitement. It took me a few goes on Yuji's to figure out the feet and find the good holds. I'll see how Atrocious feels after a few goes and then decide if I still find it stiffer than Yuji's.