Atras is located on the right-facing dihedral on the left side of the Necromancer Wall descent gully. This gully is on the left (east) side of the Wall. Approach as for Necromancer Wall then walk left until you are at the base of the descent gully. Scramble up ledges about 100 feet until you reach the base of the climb.
Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral through many off-width sections. At the top of the corner, go through the vegetation and loose blocks and belay under the roof that caps the left chimney.
Pitch 2: Stem the chimney, undercling the splitter crack on the left side of the ceiling and pull the well-protected crux move that surpasses the roof on the left side and then fire up the chimney to the top. This chimney is a tight squeeze.
Descent: From the top of the feature, scramble down to the climbers right (west) toward Necromancer Wall. Descend the gully that is between Atras and Necromancer Wall. There are a few slings in the gully for rappelling, but I've always downclimbed it.
Notes: This route is definitely a stiff 5.8 but a very fun climb featuring a wide variation of techniques. There is an easier escape chimney on the right side above pitch 1, probably 5.7.
Also, at the top of pitch 1 I actually set up a belay in the crack below the escape chimney and then did a short, poorly protected traverse left to the crux chimney at the start of pitch 2. This may be a good idea as the crux chimney had a lot of loose flakes that I was raining down on the standard belay position.
Standard rack up to Camalot #4 plus doubles of #3 and #3.5.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 10, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'm not sure what to think of this route. On the one hand, the first pitch to the bush below the chimney is really interesting and stout for the grade- and good rock. A good pitch.
On the other, the second pitch primary route is an absolute avoid at all costs pitch. The rock is rotten, the pro is non-existent, and that's before you even get to the crux. I wasn't willing to run it out 30' on bad rock to get to the chimney itself and instead opted to traverse to the escape chimney, which I found to be a pleasant 5.7 and a more appropriate way to go to stay in line with the first pitch, imho.
From: las vegas, NV
Jun 25, 2012
First pitch is excellent, with a bit of novel movement, stout for the grade. Second pitch looked like very poor rock quality, we didn't do it. Also there is a wonderful bolted route on the face to the right of P1 that starts on the ledge, don't miss it (goes at about 10a., a couple of pieces of gear makes it more comfortable, 70m rope gets you to the ground from the chain anchor.) In the end of June, these two routes get shade until about 1pm.
|By Jeff Buhl|
Apr 8, 2013
This definitely an old school "5.8"...being a solid 5.10 climber would be a good thing. The first pitch is awkwardly aesthetic and a bit burly. The second pitch is the must do money pitch - really intimidating...Wow! There is certainly some poor quality rock on the way up but some gear can be had. Up into and out of the squeeze is pretty crazy fun. There is plenty of normal size gear in the squeeze and the exit is well protected by a number 2 or 3 Camalot. Great route to have done.