Atomic Stetson 5.13c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13c [details] |
| FA: | Paul Piana |
| Submitted By: | m.wendling on Jan 16, 2008 |
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Working out the crux of Atomic Stetson on the Rode...
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Description Bouldery through the lower half then 5.12 for the last bolt or two.
Location R. of Cow Reggae
Protection bolts
BJ climbing the testpiece linkup "Genetic Drifter"...
| The crux lunge.
| Finishing up the technical headwall.
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| Comments on Atomic Stetson |
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By Mike Anderson From: Dayton, OH Aug 18, 2009
| Saying a Wild Iris route is bouldery is like saying the same thing twice, like being redundant. |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 27, 2009
| That's funny Mike. It's comical. |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Aug 27, 2009
| Not unlike the ADAA- American Dodgeball Association of America |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 27, 2009
| If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball. |
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Sep 28, 2009
| This is a really excellent route, despite its diminutive stature, that I think is noticeably better than Cow Reggae, though most guidebook authors seem to disagree. This is pretty long & sustained at the grade for a Wild Iris route. Most of the 5.13s up here have less than four hard moves. While the crux itself is probably only ~5 really hard moves, there are plenty of desparate opportunities above to blow the redpoint. There is one move in particular, right at the lip, that would make most non-locals doubt the 12c grade of Babalouie. Despite the comfortizing, this guy will make you bleed, so plenty of tape is advised. |
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