|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||jeffrey c gibson on Feb 18, 2011|
|Comments on Atomic Punk||Add Comment|
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By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Feb 18, 2011
|This route is found on the south fin to the left of diamond dog.|
By Patrick R. M.
From: Henderson, Nevada
Dec 23, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Located on the southwest fin, on the arete around the left corner from the Diamond Dog route, Atomic Punk is a beautiful line, filled with monos, nice incut crimps, and thoughtfully placed bolts. Making the second clip is committing, with definite groundfall potential, but from there, the climbing is stellar and pure joy.
Now for the bad news. About 30 ft from the summit, the bolt line (7?) comes to an abrupt end. The climbing looked sustained to the left, while scrambling up and to the right brought the anchors for Diamond Dog route around the corner into view. If you really wanna top this out, you could ostensibly clip those chains, but it would create heinous drag and probably make cleaning a real hassle.
In the mean time, there's a bailer waiting to be rescued.