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Atomic Cafe 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The right arching crack. Sustained 5.8 climbing. No pro is available until 10-12' off the deck and the start is probably slightly above 5.8 (imho).

Location 

Left of Taco Time (the rightmost 5.6 bolted line). Probably about 15' left. Right of barter town (bolted route going left under the roof)

Protection 

Nuts, tricams, cams to 2" (I think, been a while). Can setup a belay on a tree about 30' back from the top. Use the Taco Time anchors to double rap down.


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By Rigggs24
From: Denver, CO
Jun 20, 2011

I tried the start a few differsnt ways and found that heading up from directly below/to slightly right of the first protected portion of the crack seemed the easiest for me. Definitely 5.9 for the fist 10' and a couple unprotected moves at 10-15'.
By DanMorgan405
Jul 13, 2015

Rock quality isn't great, we climbed Taco Time and added directionals on descent. Start is the hardest part of this climb. Easiest way is a little counter intuitive as there looks to be a decent hand jamb or lie back on the first move, it's significantly harder this way. Just climb straight up, it's the easiest way. There is also a variation which I think is what Rigggs24 is talking about. It was covered in daddy long legs so we let them be and didn't try that way.
By Tristan Bradford
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jun 29, 2016

Tons of nut placements, bring large cams

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