|368 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.12+ [details]|
|Season: ||70 F or more in Vegas is comfortable on the wall|
|Submitted By: ||j wharton on Apr 18, 2012|
Atmospheres is another fantastic route. Although maybe not quite as good as Jet Stream, it's damn close, and seemed a touch harder.
Don't miss this route! There should be lines for all the climbs on this wall! Even if you climb 5.14 regularly, onsighting this route would be an incredible achievment. Depending on your strengths or weaknesses Pitch 2, 3, or 4 could prove to be the crux.
P1: The only poor pitch on the route. 80' of okay .10 is over quickly.
P2: Fading left facing dihedral, which becomes desperate higher up. Then a tricky boulder problem over a roof leads to easier climbing. Above the roof a medium wire, and small-ish offset protect some heady 5.11 face climbing, which at first seems horrifying but proves quite reasonable. 90'
P3: Really fun 5.11 for 40' to a nice rest below the crux. Very tricky, and committing V7-ish boulder problem above #1 and #2 BD stoppers lead to more cool, wandering .11+, and a great ledge. 110'
P4: Techy face climbing for 25' leads to enjoyable .10+ climbing to the anchors. 140'
If you lower twice on the last pitch (leaving a biner or two) you can rap the route with a 70m.
Handren's guide gives excellent beta for the approach, etc.
single set of cams from #000 C3 to a #1 camalot. maybe an extra #00 and #0
a set of wires and offset rps
be sure to bring a #1 and #2 BD stopper (they fit better then offsets--weird)for the P3 crux