A bold lead if you're feeling strong! Also a great toprope, this climb mixes sequential face climbing with a few burly crack moves. There are some sketchy moves below the first bolt that can be protected by RPs (check it out on TR first if you're not sure about the placements), but the rest of the climb is fairly well protected.
Climb the face past 2 bolts then head up and right to the undercling crack. Traverse this up and left and prepare for the big final move! A good TR or a bold lead- either way it's a fun climb. A toprope can be set up by climbing the first pitch of Tongo to the left.
Bring some RPs to protect the bottom 20 feet before the first bolt, a couple of 'draws for the 2 bolts, and some small cams for the upper crack. There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top.
I thought it was a good route. I don't remember any rp's to protect the start, though. After clipping the first bolt the gear remains good. Crux is pullin' on a crimper... way more straightforward, and basically easier, than the start of Country Club, the start of Athlete's Feat, and the beginning, slabby moves of Never a Dull Moment, all of which are rated one or two letter grades easier. Duncan Burke
I couldn't find any gear worth putting in before the first bolt. It's not much of an issue as the climbing up to that point is fairly easy. This is an excellent and pumpy lead, well worth doing. I don't know if I would say it's as hard as 11d though.
This route definitely does not need any bolts added. It is perfect as it is! It is an exciting lead but has probably been led hundreds of times if not much more. Not every route has to be dumbed down with a bunch of bolts. Leave some routes for those who like a little adventure and challenge.
My buddy, Steve Annecone, figured out how to get two good pieces (a yellow/green offset Alien and an RP) before the first bolt. The gear makes for a pretty damn safe lead and should only be considered S, at the worst.
By ChanVan Sep 20, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a PG13
This is a great route- techy, pumpy, and a bit spicy. The PG-13 refers to the start, which is probably 10+. There is an obvious, bomber, small cam to protect the move up to the rail, then a #1 Peanut to protect the move to the jug. The rest of the gear is bomber but pumpy to place for sure. I called this 11c only, because IMHO it is much easier than Englishman's...might also be easier than CCC for many. In any case, awesome route that the competent 5.11 leader should not shy away from.
Dan and I climbed this route a year or so before his transition to rap bolting sport routes. This route, in my mind, represents the vision and commitment Dan held as a climber. Not only was it a bold lead, he found this line on one of the more popular crags in the canyon. That is his gift - finding great lines.
I am glad to see others here defending this route in its original form. It would be a bummer to see bolts added to this route. Right after Dan and I climbed this route, a Spanish guy who was traveling through the area nailed the 2nd ascent and confirmed the rating.
By doze From: Denver, CO Sep 6, 2011 rating: 5.11b/c6c+23VIII-E4 6a PG13
Fine route with sketchy start. Looked like there was a place for tiny nut, but I would have doubts falling on it. The move from which you can hit the ground is only about 5.9, so I don't know how appropriate R rating would be in context of the whole route. A yellow C3 perfectly protects traverse left at the top, so you don't have to swing into the corner if you blow it.
The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement.