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 ADVANCED
The Sorcerer
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

Atlantis 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt & Tony Yaniro, June 1981
Page Views: 15,634
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Unknown climber hiking the crux.

Description 

Atlantis climbs the steep and singular feature just right of Thin Ice.

P1: Begin by climbing the overhanging right-facing flake just right of Thin Ice. Strenuous but straight-forward. 5.10c.

P2: Climb up flakes to briefly join Thin Ice, but then traverse right on more flakes to a bolted belay. 5.10.

P3: Step right to the tips crack, get a couple pieces in as high as possible (purple TCU, wires), take a deep breath and punch it on really powerful tips liebacks to an obvious incut slot. Shake, place more pro, and continue up on slightly easier terrain (including a beautiful hand crack). Belay on a ledge. 5.11c.

P4: Climb out left from the belay through a small, tricky bulge/roof, then continue up the corner system to the summit. 5.11a. It is also possible (and recommended!) to do the spectacular Lost at Sea flake which departs from the right end of the belay ledge (but unless you climb 5.12+ slab you'll have to rap back down and climb the standard P4 to top out anyway).

Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.

Protection 

Single set of cams from tiny to #2 Camalot. Wires.


Photos of Atlantis Slideshow Add Photo
Two climbers about to have a not so fun time on At...
Two climbers about to have a not so fun time on At...
Luke leads and Lizzy belays on the crux pitche of ...
Luke leads and Lizzy belays on the crux pitche of ...
Todd Gordon on pitch one.    Photo;  Todd Gordon c...
Todd Gordon on pitch one. Photo; Todd Gordon c...
Entering the nice handcrack on p3.
Entering the nice handcrack on p3.
Mike Schneiter, just above the crux on Atlantis. W...
Mike Schneiter, just above the crux on Atlantis. W...
rapping off the second pitch in a light rain
rapping off the second pitch in a light rain
Angelina cruising P4 of Atlantis.
Angelina cruising P4 of Atlantis.
Ian Huang at the crux of Atlantis.
Ian Huang at the crux of Atlantis.
Rapping Atlantis/Lost At Sea
Rapping Atlantis/Lost At Sea
Flaking the rope before setting off on my dream cl...
Flaking the rope before setting off on my dream cl...
Joy Schneiter, climbing the first pitch of Atlanti...
Joy Schneiter, climbing the first pitch of Atlanti...
Side view of the first pitch
Side view of the first pitch
Crux pitch. Small gear
Crux pitch. Small gear
First pitch crux
First pitch crux
Scotty climbs Pitch 1 of Atlantis (5.10c),  Sean f...
Scotty climbs Pitch 1 of Atlantis (5.10c), Sean f...

Comments on Atlantis Add Comment
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By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

I recommend doing the Lost at Sea finish. After arriving at the Lost At Sea anchor one can rappel down and left to arrive back at the belay, then finish on the last pitch of Atlantis.

A good link-up is Thin Ice to Atlantis to Lost at Sea to Atlantis.
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Jun 8, 2008

This is a glorious climb! A must if you’re a 5.11 trad climber living in California, or anywhere for that matter. *****
By ChugachMan
Sep 8, 2009

Ridiculously fun climb, with short, but heady cruxes. A lot of fun.
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 16, 2012

This climb is extraordinary! The rock quality, position, and climbing are all amazing.

P1: I used a #3 & #4 C4 and felt very comfortable that way.
P3: Use the Lost at Sea bolted anchor after the hand crack. Every stance above this either has questionable gear or is semi-hanging.


By Will Barnes
From: Edmonton, AB
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

I agree, the topo says to keep climbing past the bolted anchor after the handcrack on pitch two but this made no sense to me. You have to climb a good bit further before you can get decent gear for an anchor and the stance is less than ideal. I can't think of any reason you wouldn't want to use the bolted anchor.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 30, 2014

Single set felt a bit on the thin side... You can definitely bring bigger gear for P1, but then you're trying to place it in the hardest part of the pitch... Pitches 1 and 2 link nicely.