Atlantis 5.11+ PG13
| 10,305 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Randy Leavitt & Tony Yaniro, June 1981 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006 |
| |
Unknown climber hiking the crux.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Atlantis climbs the steep and singular feature just right of Thin Ice.
P1: Begin by climbing the overhanging right-facing flake just right of Thin Ice. Strenuous but straight-forward. 5.10c.
P2: Climb up flakes to briefly join Thin Ice, but then traverse right on more flakes to a bolted belay. 5.10.
P3: Step right to the tips crack, get a couple pieces in as high as possible (purple TCU, wires), take a deep breath and punch it on really powerful tips liebacks to an obvious incut slot. Shake, place more pro, and continue up on slightly easier terrain (including a beautiful hand crack). Belay on a ledge. 5.11c.
P4: Climb out left from the belay through a small, tricky bulge/roof, then continue up the corner system to the summit. 5.11a. It is also possible (and recommended!) to do the spectacular Lost at Sea flake which departs from the right end of the belay ledge (but unless you climb 5.12+ slab you'll have to rap back down and climb the standard P4 to top out anyway).
Descend to the north; see the description for the Sorcerer for more details.
Protection Single set of cams from tiny to #2 Camalot. Wires.
Ian Huang at the crux of Atlantis.
|
Entering the nice handcrack on p3.
|
Scotty climbs Pitch 1 of Atlantis (5.10c), Sean f...
|
Flaking the rope before setting off on my dream cl...
|
Crux pitch. Small gear
|
First pitch crux
|
Rapping Atlantis/Lost At Sea
|
Side view of the first pitch
|
Joy Schneiter, climbing the first pitch of Atlanti...
|
Mike Schneiter, just above the crux on Atlantis. W...
|
Todd Gordon on pitch one. Photo; Tod...
|
rapping off the second pitch in a light rain
|
Angelina cruising P4 of Atlantis.
|
Two climbers about to have a not so fun time on At...
|
Luke leads and Lizzy belays on the crux pitche of ...
| | | |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.11c PG13
| I recommend doing the Lost at Sea finish. After arriving at the Lost At Sea anchor one can rappel down and left to arrive back at the belay, then finish on the last pitch of Atlantis.
A good link-up is Thin Ice to Atlantis to Lost at Sea to Atlantis. |
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Jun 8, 2008
| This is a glorious climb! A must if you’re a 5.11 trad climber living in California, or anywhere for that matter. ***** |
By ChugachMan
Sep 8, 2009
| Ridiculously fun climb, with short, but heady cruxes. A lot of fun. |
By ACassebeer
From: Mojave, CA
Jul 16, 2012
| This climb is extraordinary! The rock quality, position, and climbing are all amazing.
P1: I used a #3 & #4 C4 and felt very comfortable that way.
P3: Use the Lost at Sea bolted anchor after the hand crack. Every stance above this either has questionable gear or is semi-hanging.
|
By Will Barnes
From: Goleta, CA
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.11+ PG13
| I agree, the topo says to keep climbing past the bolted anchor after the handcrack on pitch two but this made no sense to me. You have to climb a good bit further before you can get decent gear for an anchor and the stance is less than ideal. I can't think of any reason you wouldn't want to use the bolted anchor. |
|
RSS Feed
more...
Slideshow
