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ATC XP/Guide - HFM/LFM for rappelling
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By Chicagio
May 10, 2011
Just curious if anyone has any thoughts on which way to orient the ATC when rapelling.

If i were to try to figure it out on my own, i would guess that if you're a bit nervous about losing control, you should use high friction mode. (In addition to a prussik/kliemheist or fireman's belay, of course)

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By csproul
From Davis, CA
May 10, 2011
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background
Chicagio wrote:
Just curious if anyone has any thoughts on which way to orient the ATC when rapelling. If i were to try to figure it out on my own, i would guess that if you're a bit nervous about losing control, you should use high friction mode. (In addition to a prussik/kliemheist or fireman's belay, of course)
For me, it depends largely on how thick the rope is that I'm using, single strand vs double strand rap, whether I'm using a back-up or not, and how much weight I'm carrying. Most of the time, I use the low friction side, but will change if I think necessary.

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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
May 10, 2011
OTL
I'm 190lbs w/o gear and I prefer the low friction side on less than vertical raps or else it feels too "grabby" and not smooth for me. More weight and/or steeper terrain and the high friction side is appreciated.

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By Wyatt H
From Casper, Wy
May 10, 2011
Try different combos until you find one that you're comfortable with.

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By Keith H. North
From Englewood, CO
May 10, 2011
A short M4 climb in the School Room @ Ouray
You can do either one it makes little difference but rope thickness and condition should be your main concern.

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By Sergio P
From Idaho Springs, CO
May 10, 2011
World Champion NY Giants logo
I usually attach the ATC to a sling or PAS and use it on low friction mode. By extending the ATC away from my body it is much easier for me to control the friction speed. I rarely use a rope thinner then 9.8 and the low friction side keeps it running smooth.

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By Chicagio
May 11, 2011
Thanks everyone!

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