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ATC XP/Guide - HFM/LFM for rappelling
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May 10, 2011
Just curious if anyone has any thoughts on which way to orient the ATC when rapelling.

If i were to try to figure it out on my own, i would guess that if you're a bit nervous about losing control, you should use high friction mode. (In addition to a prussik/kliemheist or fireman's belay, of course)
Chicagio
Joined May 10, 2011
3 points
May 10, 2011
Cold day at Smug's
Chicagio wrote:
Just curious if anyone has any thoughts on which way to orient the ATC when rapelling. If i were to try to figure it out on my own, i would guess that if you're a bit nervous about losing control, you should use high friction mode. (In addition to a prussik/kliemheist or fireman's belay, of course)
For me, it depends largely on how thick the rope is that I'm using, single strand vs double strand rap, whether I'm using a back-up or not, and how much weight I'm carrying. Most of the time, I use the low friction side, but will change if I think necessary.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
218 points
May 10, 2011
OTL
I'm 190lbs w/o gear and I prefer the low friction side on less than vertical raps or else it feels too "grabby" and not smooth for me. More weight and/or steeper terrain and the high friction side is appreciated. Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
501 points
May 10, 2011
Try different combos until you find one that you're comfortable with. Wyatt H
From Casper, Wy
Joined Oct 29, 2010
19 points
May 10, 2011
A short M4 climb in the School Room @ Ouray
You can do either one it makes little difference but rope thickness and condition should be your main concern. Keith H. North
From Englewood, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
146 points
May 10, 2011
World Champion NY Giants logo
I usually attach the ATC to a sling or PAS and use it on low friction mode. By extending the ATC away from my body it is much easier for me to control the friction speed. I rarely use a rope thinner then 9.8 and the low friction side keeps it running smooth. Sergio P
From Idaho Springs, CO
Joined Oct 23, 2004
237 points
May 11, 2011
Thanks everyone! Chicagio
Joined May 10, 2011
3 points


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