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At the Bottom 
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Sliver of Light 

At the Bottom 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 24, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: At the Bottom (5.11a TR), The Cemetery

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Description 

Climb up a thin mottled slab via thin edges to gain twin knobs then punch it over the bulge on thin crimps to finish up the very easy plated slab to anchors.

This route has been rated 5.10a in various guidebooks but is much harderthan that taking the obvious line up the face. Evidence of broken rock at the bulge as well as the initial slab suggest that perhaps the holds that made it easier now lie at the base.

A 5.10a(ish) way can be found by stemming off a boulder at the base to start and then climbing the right margin of the formation to bypass the crux bulge. This variation is not recommended due to the potential swing should one fall off.


Location 

Starts about 8 feet right of Disconnect on a thin mottled slab.


Protection 

TR



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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Swing potential is still high on this route since it is top roped from the anchor of Disconnect pretty far left of the route line. The route is still pretty dirty - there are loose flakes near the crux that flex when pulled on (stick with the knobs mentioned). Felt a bit easier than some of the other .11s in the area, but probably because it is not very sustained? The bottom portion is very edgy and somewhat sequential. For sure this route hasn't seen a lot of traffic.