Astroprojection 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | B. Smoot, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2004 |
| |
Setting up a top rope. We used directionals for A...
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Description The eastern most bolted line, Astroprojection is an edging dream or nightmare depending on your ability. It starts a little slabby, but beyond that there is nothing easy about it. Getting to the overhang is thin and tough on the fingers. Popping the overhang is a decision making process. Do you utilize the right or left crack, layback or jam? Once the roof is cleared, the climbing gets harder (imagine that). Stay off that left arete (no really!!), and edge it on up. There are beautiful edges and long reachy hands that tire the fingers. Look for a hidden (Bomber) pocket that appears out of nowhere, near the top. As the Ruckman's say, this is the testpiece of the Parley's climbs, master this and you are the King of Parleys. Bolt 1 or 2 seemed like the hanger was bent.
Protection 6 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. These anchors can be used for the climbs Dirty Rotten Horror, Edge of the Sea, and Riptide, so a top-rope can be set this way. Also some small to medium gear might be prudent.
| Comments on Astroprojection |
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 8, 2004
| Anyone know wether that nice block on yr right @ the roof is on? I put my foot on it but i wasn't sure. |
By Vince Romney
Jul 26, 2004
rating: 5.11d
| I used it, but don't know if it's "on" or not. It may actually be part of "Dirty Rotten Horror". The only thing I know is "off" for sure is the arete on the left of the upper face. |
By Tea
Jun 7, 2006
| off...on.....if you can reach it, and aren't looking at a huge swing, i'd say it's on. |
By Joey Henderson
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 20, 2006
| does anyone know if you are supposed to follow he crack on the left or the right? Or are they both on? |
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 20, 2006
| If you can clip bolts from the location in question, it is on. The only "OFF" thing is the left arete. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 9, 2009
rating: 5.11+
| Every bolt is a 1/4" spinner on this line. Makes for a spicy lead...
A #8 nut backs up the 2nd bolt nicely and will keep you of the ground in case of a catastrophic event. A .5 or .75 also fits in the crack between the 4th and 5th bolt just in case.
Everything is "on" except for the arete, it's not like there are so many holds you can afford to not use some of them. Both cracks are needed above the roof anyway.
The upper bulges require lots of balance and some unlikely thumb underclinging. The last move is a tendon-ripper, make sure you have the sequence dialed. |
By bsmoot
May 7, 2013
| These bolts are 3/8" 5 piece rawls.
Update: These are the originals. Maybe they just look thinner because some don't have washers. |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.11+
| Since recently or since always? They sure look skinny and manky but I never really had any qualms with whipping on them... |
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