|444 page views|
Do the crux roof of Head Over Heels, but head up and slightly right on the steep wall above. The climb finishes on a ledge system half way up the rock, with a walk-off descent. The route has fun moves past overhangs with excellent protection.
3 bolts, gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor/rap
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 2, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Bring some locking carabiners for the bolts since both seem to load the biners across the rock. Kevin is such a purist that he wouldn't move them even an inch when they replaced them!
There are actually 3 new bolts including the bolt on Head over Heals, a pin that is almost impossible to clip so don't bother, and a new two bolt rap anchor at the top. A light rack of cams to 3". Single rope rap.
|By Nelson Day|
From: Victorville, CA
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Just clarifying - there are three bolts on this route, not two (as mentioned). One above the Head over Heels crux, one about 5 feet above the first bolt, and one above the final roof move. The next gear from the last bolt looks to be a ways out. If you traverse directly to the right from the last bolt, the route wouldn't be too scary getting to the next pro. If you head up and right from the last bolt, your next gear will be about 13 feet above the last bolt through pumpy terrain.