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 ADVANCED
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Farewell to Poodles T 
Astropoodle T 
Easy As Pi T 
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 
Fusion Without Integrity T 
Head Over Heals T 
Mind Over Matter T 
Mind over Splatter T 
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 
Route 182 T 
Space Walk T 
Suspect Rock T 

Astropoodle 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Bob Kamps, and Kevin Wright, Oct. 1988
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Astropoodle

Description 

Do the crux roof of Head Over Heels, but head up and slightly right on the steep wall above. The climb finishes on a ledge system half way up the rock, with a walk-off descent. The route has fun moves past overhangs with excellent protection.

Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 3", 2 bolt anchor/rap


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By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Just clarifying - there are three bolts on this route, not two (as mentioned). One above the Head over Heels crux, one about 5 feet above the first bolt, and one above the final roof move. The next gear from the last bolt looks to be a ways out. If you traverse directly to the right from the last bolt, the route wouldn't be too scary getting to the next pro. If you head up and right from the last bolt, your next gear will be about 13 feet above the last bolt through pumpy terrain.