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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Dan Hare & Mike Downing, 1987
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: tbol on Dec 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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  • Description 

    This route begins with either pitch 1 of Bolt Cola or the shallow crack one route left (5.10a), belay at the anchor for Bolt Cola.

    Pitch two heads up and slightly left to an old bolt and fixed pin right next to each other. From here, head up and slightly right over a small roof to a ledge with a giant, and very cool, eagle's nest (9+ S). The rock here is a little suspect, as are some of the gear placements; be careful not to disturb the eagle's nest. Also, the belay for the second pitch is tat around a possibly questionable flake; good hand-sized pieces will make this belay bomber though.

    From the ledge, launch directly up into sequential and somewhat tenuous climbing through a thin feature that arcs up and right (12a). The bolts here are old and questionable, with the third being the best. As of right now the rope hanging from the third is also in poor condition. I suggest not clipping it. Right at the third bolt is the crux, but several in obvious moves lead up into the left-facing corner above that used to be protected by a fixed pin. I placed two very small nuts here that both blew when I pumped out and whipped on them. The fall is clean but watchout for the ledge below, it is very possible you may hit it from a fall above the third bolt. Once established in the corner above, place good gear and head straight up the finish of Center Direct to a large belay ledge.

    To descend, take this same class 3/class 4 walk off ledge to the left.


    Light rack with a couple hand size pieces and emphasis on small stuff, ~10 QDs.
    Pitch three probably deserves an R rating now that the fixed pin is gone.

    Comments on Astrophysics Add Comment
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    By Jason Haas
    Jan 31, 2016

    I didn't know what to expect with a comment like the "bolts are old and questionable, with the third being the best". Turns out that was a bit of an understatement. The first two bolts were buttonheads with Leeper hangers and the second one was half pulled and bent. I wouldn't have trusted it to hold body weight personally, let alone a lead fall. The third bolt was a wedge bolt with a thin SMC hanger that's collar wouldn't tighten in the hole with a wrench - it just kept spinning and wiggling and could be slightly pulled out of the hole with a quickdraw. But indeed, it was the best of the lot :)

    Anyway, I replaced all three bolts and I attempted to replace the missing Fixed Pin as well. The new pin wouldn't really bite well and as it protects the finishing moves of the business, I was not confident in its longevity. I talked to Dan Hare (FA) about it and he encouraged replacing the pin with a bolt. Personally, I'd be in favor of that as well.
    By tbol
    From: a Toyota Tacoma
    Feb 1, 2016


    Thanks for replacing the bolts!!! I have been meaning to for some time. You are right, it was an understatement on my end in regards to their poor condition. I am actually good friends with Dan, and he has told me numerous times to put a bolt where the pin used to be, especially if I were to upgrade the existing hardware. I would be happy to go up there some time with you and finish the job. I have a bunch of stainless hardware I am happy to contribute. I know that Dan would be stoked, too. It is a pretty good pitch! Let me know if you are interested in teaming up.

    By Jason Haas
    Feb 2, 2016

    Fantastic, tbol! I'd like to redpoint the route now that it has safer hardware. I also brushed it a bit, so the top should be nicer, too. Let's be in touch once the closures lift.
    By tbol
    From: a Toyota Tacoma
    Feb 2, 2016

    Sounds great, Jason. Looking forward to it!

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