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Start at the top right of the snowfield at +/-12,600 ft. Fourth Class it up a right-leaning, narrow ramp to a good stance. Trend left for two pitches across a face then a crack to the right end of the slabby, diagonal ramp. Follow the top of the ramp for a long pitch then a short pitch before you reach the left end, to stop below a hopefully dry, waterfall trough. Go straight up this crux pitch. Another pitch takes you to the top of the east ridge. Simulclimb to the summit or descend NW.
In the central section of the south face, left of the large obvious gully, look for a giant ramp high on the wall at about 12,600 ft.
Use a full trad rack. A few Knife Blades and Bugaboos may be useful.