Astro Goat  5.11 A0

560 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet Consensus:  5.11 A0 [details] FA:  J. Finkelstein, B. Collett, Sept. 2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ben Collett on Sep 19, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The line.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route straightens out Goat Food, climbing its excellent crux pitch and adding a considerable amount of hard climbing. Expect continuous strenuous climbing.

1) Dice your way up to the base of the corner, over a crazy fin to a really small fixed nut. Follow the corner past technical, strenuous and sustained moves to the end of the dihedral. Step slightly left and follow a series of corners to a belay on a small ledge by a small roof. 5.11 A0, 120 feet (this will be 11+ or 12- when done clean).

2) Place good gear, step over the roof and punch it up to a small ledge. From here, continue up the corner past a larger roof at around 40 feet. Then follow a chimney system up to the spacious ledge below Goat Food's crux. 5.11, 170 feet.

3) Climb Goat Food's fantastic, left-facing corner crux, step right at the roof, then back left to a ramp system and belay on another comfortable ledge. 5.11a, 130 feet.

4) Climb the steep, blocky crack directly above the belay to the ridge crest. 5.10-, 60 feet.

Scramble to the top of the buttress.

Location 

Start about 50 feet right of Goat Food, below a left-leaning, obtuse, left-facing corner.

Protection 

Some nuts and cams from purple TCU to #5 C4. It is probably worth doubling up on the small to mid-size ones.