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The Elephant's Perch
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Astro Elephant T 
Chasing the Dragon T 
Direct Beckey T 
Divine Guidance T 
Fine Line, The T 
Mojo  T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Myopia T 
Original Beckey T 
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Splittgerber-March Direct T 
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Wendy T 

Astro Elephant 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle, Dave Hough, 1982
Season: summer
Page Views: 12,747
Submitted By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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We're maybe half way up the route here and again w...

Description 

A relatively moderate but sustained outing, with 2 5.10 pitches followed by several 5.9 pitches. An easier version can be done by starting on Sideline, which avoids the 5.10 pitches.

Check out Brad Brandewie's photo trip report.

Location 

Center of South face, starting 100' above the chockstone in the descent gully. (Lower 5th class to climb around chockstone).

Protection 

standard rack, including a 3.5" cam.


Photos of Astro Elephant Slideshow Add Photo
Lots of people get off route on Astro Elephant looking for the traverse. From the tree on the ledge atop guidebook pitch 4, follow the green line to stay on route. Start traversing and belay at the first green circle after the 5.8 chimney. MAKE SURE you don't go up above this. There are two easy starts going pretty much straight up (red x's in pic). If you go up you will be in 11R territory (or go get an FA!, mabye). Instead, move the belay left about 50 - 75'. Then go up following the green line. If you are on-route, there is a two handed super jug hueco to start off this pitch. Do a face move or two, slightly right to the dihedral (direct start into this dihedral is prob 5.11, starting in the mini cave w/ finger crack and poor feet). Climb it then traverse the top of the flake left, past a piece of tat, making an exciting 5.9 face traverse move that you don't want to blow. Above this place a md/lg nut to protect the second from a big penji, after that piece, keep going left around the corner 30' then up a splitter crack in a flare and belay above. It's easy to find the rest of the route from here.
BETA PHOTO: Lots of people get off route on Astro Elephant loo...
Here's a shot of Guillaume, fully off-route and now dealing with poorly protected 5.10 face climbing. <br /> <br />Wheeee......
Here's a shot of Guillaume, fully off-route and no...
Guillaume Dargaud on the second pitch. <br /> <br />I don't know if this route has tricky route finding or what, but is seemed like we were always wondering where the hell to go. <br />
Guillaume Dargaud on the second pitch. I don't kn...
topo of Astro Elephant by Reid Dowdle, with some edits
BETA PHOTO: topo of Astro Elephant by Reid Dowdle, with some e...
Jenny on the amazing dihedral to finish the pitch that I described where many people get off route. belay is hand pieces. <br /> <br />You will be right on the nose of the formation at this belay.
BETA PHOTO: Jenny on the amazing dihedral to finish the pitch ...
Astro Elephant
Astro Elephant
Astro Elephant
Astro Elephant
Elephant's Perch - South Face <br /> <br />8. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+  <br />7. The Seagull 5.10 A3  <br />6. King's Highway 5.9 A3  <br />5. Myopia 5.11a ***  <br />4. Divine Guidance 5.11- *  <br />3a. Elephant's Eye Var. 5.10+ A3  <br />3. Elephant's Eye 5.10+ A3  <br />2. Astro Elephant 5.10a **  <br />2.A. Sideline Variation 5.9  <br />1. Sunrise Book 5.12a or 5.10a A1 **  <br />
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - South Face 8. Lost Horizons 5....
Fran Bagenal starting up Astro Elephant. Pitch 1.
Fran Bagenal starting up Astro Elephant. Pitch 1.
Struggling to comprehend the view. The beauty of this place cannot be described.
Struggling to comprehend the view. The beauty of t...
Astro Elephant. Fran Bagenal.
Astro Elephant. Fran Bagenal.
Astro Elephant <br />Photo by Aerili
Astro Elephant Photo by Aerili
Cory styles the short but sweet last pitch 9+ finger crack.
Cory styles the short but sweet last pitch 9+ fing...
Astro Elephant route overview shot taken from the campsite across Saddleback Lake. August 2014
BETA PHOTO: Astro Elephant route overview shot taken from the ...

Comments on Astro Elephant Add Comment
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By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Aug 5, 2008

Great route! Climbing the original start with a 70m, you can link 1+2 (long pitch!) and 3+4.
By Wyatt Payne
From: Littleton CO
Dec 16, 2009

In 2008 Stu Ritchie and I got lost before we even started climbing
Astro Elephant. Everything looked as expected through the first pitch. As I lead out on the second after turning a corner and expecting to find a RF dihedral I was facing what looked more like a shallow right facing bomb bay that went up to a long horizontal roof. Very long story short we knew that we screwed the pooch badly. To remedy that situation I lead straight out Right below the roof. During that process I clipped a vertically driven knife blade, placed a .5 cam that I wouldn't want to hang a rice cake off of and traversed on slabby feet Way right. Then I hit a weakness and punched up over the top of the roof to belayed Stu over. Then I traversed slightly down and right on a slab then moved up to a weakness (Shallow vegetated crack), and then ran like crazy up and right all the way to the main ledge of Astro Elephant (70ish meters). Along the second pitch we clipped several bail anchors and some gear that looked like aid from previous parties. After looking at the climbing legend poster at the Elephant's Perch shop it looks like we came up Elephant Eye Variation 3b then traversed right over to Elephant's eye proper to belay, then way up and right to rejoin Astro Elephant. Climbing felt 11-hard. If anyone knows where the hell we were or what we may have unintentionally freed please let me know.

This was very exciting and committing, so be careful where you start out on AE if you don't want to step that route up substantially.
By ChrisAlex5
From: Portland, OR
Aug 9, 2010

Did EXACTLY the same thing as Wyatt this past weekend. I would add that one would be ill-advised to follow the route highlighted in blue on the photo in the trip report linked above, at Piquaclimber, as that line's lower pitches trace the path exactly as Wyatt describes (and NOT the correct line).

Sidenote: With Josh leading (and aiding) the sketchy traverse under the roof, the aforementioned vertically-driven Knifeblade (Lost Arrow) popped out, just under body weight! Anyone have any FA beta on Elephant's Eye?...I'm curious how old it might be.
By Brad Brandewie
Aug 10, 2010

Sorry for the confusion guys.

I thought I had changed that picture years ago to show the correct line. I will make sure it is corrected tonight.

Brad
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Having climbed both the left and right starts I suggest the left version as it is more aesthetic and the right side had a pretty concerning loose block that I could not avoid. Absolutely wonderful route, the big bivy type ledge up high reminds me of being on El Capitan. One of the more moderate routes on the mountain but you still need to have serious skills at gear placement to keep it safe.
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 13, 2011

Just climbed this two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Route finding was not too bad. Pithch 1 is signifacntly harder than pitch 2. The 5.8 bomb-bay chimney is challenging as was the "5.7" chimney encountered later. Though the best pitch was the 9+ traverse around and exposed areate high on the route with scant gear. Thrilling!
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2012

Amazing route that is a lot of fun. You can link the two 5.10 pitches with a single 60m rope. Then one more long pitch takes you to the ledge with the tree. Combining those and not counting the P6 ledge traverse, the route ends up being 7 pitches. A single 60 was fine but your call in case you have to bail.

Routefinding beta.

1) Start above the descent gully chockstone. You start behind a tree and are aiming for the big trees on the ledge. You should not hit any big roofs in this section if you are on route. 2 full 60m pitches will get you to the ledge.

2) From above the 5.8 chimney you have to traverse about 60 - 80 feet left (P6 on the topo) before you start up from atop stacked boulders near the arete. Your first hold will be a two-handed super jug hueco. then you step right, climb a flake, traverse back left passing a white piece of tat, pull the 5.9 face moves and keep moving left (leaving a nut to protect the second). There are two other places you could start up too far to the right that will put you into 11r territory. The left of the two wrong variations had a fixed bail biner on it. Look for the ratty sling and avoid bail biners. The correct starting point for pitch 7 is the right side of the stacked blocks on the highest point of the ledge system. I will try to post a pic with more info as this is really the only place to get off route besides maybe the first pitch. (edit: see pics for this route for more beta)
By Aaron Miller
Jun 21, 2013

Great route with really good belays (if you link first 2 pitches, which you will work for). Never really saw how 3 and 4 would be any more than one pitch. Only 130 feet and there wasn't anywhere Id want to stop and belay.

Pitch 7 (after ledge traverse) is amazing, best pitch on route!!! Great position and movement up to a great belay ledge, you will love it. Just note that you start it by moving up a little and back towards the right about 10 feet (through the cool big pocket)to avoid the first obvious dihedral. You want to ascend the second right-facing flake-like feature.
By Dougald MacDonald
Aug 7, 2013

If you want to be clear on the start of AE, print the Sideline topo, which shows the relationship between Astro-Elephant and Sideline very clearly. We were so concerned about the various comments about ending up too far left at the start of AE that we ended up doing Sideline by mistake. If we'd had the topo for the latter, it would have been crystal-clear. Still a great route.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 25, 2014

Despite people posting that you can "only" get off-route on pitch 1, 7, or 1,000, we found the hardest route-finding to be at the very top! Starting at pitch 9, apparently our belay was not far enough right. Due to our error, it would seem that the belay must be moved very far right at this point - past an obvious place where the pitch seems to start via a straight-up crack and a left-trending ramp that converge at a constriction, both of which can and have been climbed (and where a fixed green Alien exists at the time of this writing). Our error took us up two pitches of relatively sustained 10+ licheny climbing. Exciting! Others clearly made similar mistakes as the semi-hanging belay just beneath a roof at the end of this particular pitch 9 variation has a permanent rap sling anchor.

At this point, we chose not to rap and re-calculate but to fire pitch 10 via the long, difficult, and dirty traverse right to the supposed "actual" end of pitch 9 (if clean, this traverse would be pretty stellar). From there, the finishing options to the top seemed to jive with the Cummins topo. Because we were tired and thirsty, we chose to take the 5.9 vs the 9+ finish to make our day a little easier. Everything in the first 40 feet seemed okay (right-angling crack to a grovelly bulge) and then it appears the topo says to go straight up a steep, hard, essentially unprotected face. Um, what. At that point we finished by continuing right on a ridiculously-exposed hand traverse filled with loose chockstones, belaying again (yarg), then going up the last 30 feet to the summit via some funky face moves. While none of it was "easy" or offered ideal protection or clean rock, this way worked and we are still puzzling over the real finish.

As a last thought, if you buy the Perch topo poster at the Ketchum shop, it shows A-E as joining with Myopia at the end (going faaar left vs right) and seemed to indicate we potentially climbed upper sections of the Elephant's Eye route instead, then summited on unnamed cracks and face to its right. So my beta about pitch 9 here may be irrelevant. Whatever you do, be solid at the grade.