Just saying (:
I struggled for almost two years on what to do with this area. At first I figured I would just leave it alone as it's a little too high to boulder and a little short to bolt. It kept popping into my head though, I really liked many of the holds and moves and found myself going back. On days where I was short on time but still wanted to get on the rock I would head up there because it was low on the mountain, had a short approach and I needed nothing more then two quick-draws and a half rope so I could pack light.
Astoria is perfect for people with a fear of heights, somebody that needs a fairly gentle approach, a person that wants to climb outside but isn't leading or to show new climbers the ropes including how to clean anchors.
Don't be fooled however, there are some tough moves to be found here that are a nice deviation from the normal stuff you find on Lemmon including a ton of side pulls. If you're leading 5.11s this area will bore you but if you want a change of pace, mellow climbing or an area to introduce people to climbing this is ideal. You also can't beat the summer shade, winter sun, amazing views and if you can't handle being without your phone you even have cell reception (which is a negative to me).
While I wouldn't call the climbing child friendly (5.5) climbing, the area and approach are virtually free of hazards.
- This is a work in progress so I will be adding to this over the next week or two as I get the lines up.
If you follow the topo that should put you right there. You will approach as if you're going to Jailhouse however instead of dropping into the was and walking past that little platform on the left you will take the trail leading up the hill just before the sandy wash. You will take that up to the top of the ridge and from there cut left up the wash (there's a tree growing right in the middle of it). Head up that until it levels out and head as if you're going to Boot Hill which will take you to the top of the climbs. You can scramble right to the base of them without much trouble.
Climbing Season For the 1 - Lower Highway area.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Astoria
Chunk 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AZ
: Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
: ... : Astoria
Starts just to the right of Chunk with the large block about 5 feet up.* If you knock on the "Chunk" it does has a hollow sound, I have jumped on it pretty hard and it hasn't come of however be warned and assess the risk yourself as it does sound like it will come off one day. Have your belayer stand accordingly....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
BETA PHOTO: Face to the right of "Sloth". No routes ...
Chains at the top for the east part of the rock, t...
Anchors for One-Eyed Willie and Mouth.
BETA PHOTO: Middle section of the wall. "Data" is th...
BETA PHOTO: Beautiful pic of "Sloth". This is curren...
This photo is mostly to show off the awesome view ...
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 11, 2011
We added and enlarged the cairns leading to the cliff. Take Soldier Trail south from the metal trail sign just before you the wash that leads to Jailhouse Rock. Follow the trail uphill, as soon as it levels out turn left into the drainage (marked by cairn ontop of aprox 2'x4' boulder). Follow cairns/drainadge uphill for about 100 yards and the crag is on the right. The easiest way to reach the bottom is around the downhill side (right side looking off the top, left side looking at the cliff) but you can get down on either side.
From left to right the routes are:
One Eyed Willie*
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 26, 2011
Great place for a quick climb on a late afternoon. Gorgeous views of BootHill; etc. We've seen a few deer here!
Oct 27, 2014
Area provides great views of both Tucson and Boot Hill.
Don't be fooled by "summer shade." We were here midday in late October and there was almost no shade to speak of. We were split between huddling on the North side of a single boulder and under a short tree. Shade exists only in the late afternoon I imagine, but we never saw it. After a couple climbs we bailed for cooler locations. This would be a good winter spot.
The hike up the wash was very overgrown, which may be unique to the late monsoon rains this year, but I suggest hiking in with pants. Route is well marked with cairns.
Sloth is on the far right of this wall, not on the left side as stated in the beta. Otherwise the routes are in order. Thanks to Nick for correcting that.
There are now 3 sets of bolt and chain anchors. Only Data/Grasshopper Groove needs a sling anchor.
Nov 21, 2014
- Fun and tough set of routes
- Its a real treat to be able to top-rope an area with three 5.10 routes (the two 5.9 and the 5.8 consensus routes are all much harder than the 5.10's I've done at Green Slabs, Teen Age Mutant Ninja Turtles and Boot Hill)
- Coordinates to get there, using UTM and WGS 84:
leave Soldier Trail and go up drainage: 12 S 526061 3577360
crag: 12 S 526181 3577356