|Big Ass Slab?
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Rick Thompson, Sam Davidson & Pat Thompson, July 4, 2001|
|Page Views: ||2,097|
|Submitted By: ||Jeff Lockyer on Nov 8, 2001|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.
This mixed line starts just uphill from the obvious clean bolted slab. The bottom of the climb is protected in a flake with natural gear until reaching bolts which lead to the 2 bolt anchor. This is a decent route and the climbing is generally [straightforward], along with the gear. You may want a 60m rope to [rappel] the route, can't exaclty remember the length of rope left over, but to be sure, as most of the other routes on this wall, preferred to use a 60m. Not necessary to bring gear to this crag, but if you do, this will be an enjoyable route.
Mixed route - Pro to 2" and then bolts (approx. 5) before 2 bolt anchor.
5.9 for shorter climbers.
BETA PHOTO: Fun. Thanks, Rick, Sam, & Pat.
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jan 30, 2002
Route Name: ASSMOSIS - we called this one 8+, but like its three brothers to the left, maybe we low-balled this grade as well. Two stars as well. FA: Rick Thompson, Sam Davidson & Pat Thompson, July 4, 2001
The route name refers to the process by which some people absorb success and advancement by kissing-up to the boss rather than working hard. Cams up to #3 protect the initial flake, with four bolts on the upper face. Start just right of CRITICAL MORASS and climb the left-facing flake until it peters out. Clip a bolt, and mount the ramp (optional pro). Move up to clip the second bolt, and initiate slabbing action past three more bolts to anchors (shares anchors with CRITICAL MORASS). 95 feet. Caution, 60 meter rope REQUIRED!
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 3, 2004
Definitely low-balled. 5.9+ is fair. Pro in the flake is worthless, wouldn't hold a fall. There should be a bolt lower to protect the flake section. Otherwise, good route.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Oct 7, 2006
The pro in the flake will hold a fall. The placements are not straightforward, due to the flaring nature of the crack, but they are there. Mostly small cams.
|By Mark Cushman|
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 13, 2009
Small cams work best in the crack, I placed two of the smaller Master Cams (TCUs would work, too) in the crack and they were bomber. No need for bolts down low, the rest of the climb is bolted safely.
|By Peter Swank|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Good flaring crack at the start. I put in a #0.4 and 1 C4. There are four bolts above the crack. Some good slab when you transition off the crack, but then it backs off at the top.
|By John Dubya|
Jun 26, 2012
I also thought the gear placements were fine. Placed 3 cams, but the crack section seems easy, so 2 would be fine. Regarding the rating; if The Edge of Time is also 5.9, this is not. However, I figured TEoT at roughly 10b, and I'll call this 5.9- or just plain 5.9 with the crux right after the first bolt.