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Asshole Rock

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Cardiac Crack T 
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Asshole Rock Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 8,000'
Page Views: 3,762
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2007
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Description 

This is a separate crag from Da Butts. Originally, it was lumped in the Da Butts. For better organization, it is now separate.

It is mostly a secluded, 1-pitch crag with some notable climbs like Cardiac Crack, Wild West Show, Psycho Killer, Worst Error, and Southern Exposure. Climbing is mostly on the south and northeast faces.

There are nearby rocks called Almost Asshole, East Asshole Rocks, and Son of Asshole.

Getting There 

From Pine Junction, head South on CO 126 towards Pine. Go through Pine, past it by about 2 miles or so, you get to FR 550. (This is the turn off for Wellington Lake and the Castle.) Go left on FR 550. Go up about 1/4 mile till you see some yellow "no motor vehicles" signs. Park at the first one of these on the left. Walk down the old 4x4 trail behind the sign.

Expect about a 30 minute hike.

Per Jonathan Stickel: the approach is tricky. Follow the old road, and take the right fork when it splits - the left going to Da Butts, as described elsewhere. The road winds through the forest and after a while goes uphill and turns sharply left where there is a great view of the NE face of Asshole Rock. Do not leave the road here! Continue ~5 minutes farther until you go past a massive, smooth boulder on the right (see the beta photo). Soon after, go right and up the hill to a saddle between boulder outcroppings. From here, you should be able to see Asshole Rock through the trees. Go down to the drainage between Twisted Sister and Asshole, then bushwhack up to the S/SE aspect of Asshole. This approach works well to get to Cardiac Crack.

Climbing Season

For the Buffalo Creek area.

Weather station 5.6 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Asshole Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Asshole Rock:
Cardiac Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Asshole Rock

Featured Route For Asshole Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: One of my favorite cracks in the Platte.

Cardiac Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : Asshole Rock
AREA: Want excellent crack, in a secluded area? This is a good crag...Asshole Rocks/South Platte. If you can find it, it's worth it. I put some info on the approach below that should help.ROUTE: Cardiac Crack is on the South face of Asshole Rock proper. I believe that this is the easiest route on the crag, at stiff 5.9+. It is a possible sandbag (IMO), but, mainly really sustained, and awkward. Definitely harder than Locksmith on Sphinx Rock, and about as sustained as pitch 2 of Center Rou...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Asshole Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: We noted this boulder on our hike out from Asshole...
BETA PHOTO: We noted this boulder on our hike out from Asshole...
Rock Climbing Photo: NE face of Asshole Rock.
NE face of Asshole Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Wild West Show, 5.9. 1st pitch of Psy...
1st pitch of Wild West Show, 5.9. 1st pitch of Psy...
Rock Climbing Photo: The opposite side of Cardiac Crack (you mostly see...
The opposite side of Cardiac Crack (you mostly see...
Rock Climbing Photo: To the right of Cardiac Crack looks like there are...
To the right of Cardiac Crack looks like there are...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruising Cardiac Crack.
Cruising Cardiac Crack.

Comments on Asshole Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2016
The approach is tricky. Follow the old road and take the right fork when it splits, the left going to da Butts, as described elsewhere. The road winds through the forest and after awhile goes uphill and turns sharply left where there is a great view of the NE face of Asshole Rock. Do not leave the road here! Continue ~5 minutes farther until you go bast a massive smooth boulder on the right (see beta photo). Soon after go right and up the hill to a saddle between boulder outcroppings. From here you should be able to see Asshole Rock through the trees. Go down to the drainage between Twisted Sister and Asshole, then bushwhack up to the S/SE aspect of Asshole. This approach works well to get to Cardiac Crack.

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