Great route! Another route that should see more traffic than it does. Crimp through thought provoking beginning over well-bolted, thin face up to crux at bulge then finish up a nice arÍte to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket.
Right most route of two bolted lines between OK Corral and left facing dihedral.
Bolts to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket. Very well bolted. The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Hell in a Handbasket[left]) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Feb 8, 2013
Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried.
From: Fort Collins Colorado
Jan 7, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b PG13
This route is amazing, hard sustained face climbing with a few extra hard defined crux sequences. Though this maybe a "Cochise 5.11" any other climbing area would likely rate it somewhere in the moderate to hard 5.12 range.