|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Craig Childre on Oct 14, 2006|
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|Comments on Asleep at the Wheel||Add Comment|
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By Bad Bob
Oct 21, 2009
I think I remember doing this route in spring/summer of 1993 as the name sounds very familiar. If memory serves, it is almost directly across the river from the descent into the canyon and consists of 4-6 bolts...not my intent to provide beta, but to try and remember experiences there. I think it was installed around that time by climbers from Austin, of course the names escape me, but they were pretty excited about it and I may have had the second ascent. On the last clip before the anchors for the on-site, I blew the clip trying to reach through and fell upside down for maybe 20'. Left quite a rope burn/snake around my let as the rope wrapped around my leg.
I had been climbing for a couple of years at that point, but with little sport experience...looking back, I was probably lucky I didn't wack my head!
As far as the grade goes, I have a hard time believing this is .12a...I remember discussing with the FA party that it was .10+/11-.
Look forward to more comments on this; maybe someday I'll get back down there.
By Ryan A. Ray
From: Weatherford, TX
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
|Yeah, i dont feel this is 12a either. It is sustained 11 climbing for sure..but not 12a|
By steven charles
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
5 bolts on this one.
anyone know about the crack to the right of it, it goes on gear at about 10a or so, i felt like it was a bit spicy.