This is located on Squat Rock, straight downhill (not far) from Rupley Towers. The easiest approach may be to start down the narrow gully to the Southwest side of this tower, and look to your left on the tower for a rappel anchor. This is where the route ends. Rappel off of this anchor.
The route climbs the singular crack in the face. It begins as a seam, with a few tough moves to get established in the crack at a good stance. The crack continues up through some horizontal white bands, and past a horizontal crack (another okay stance). Above this the wall steepens and the crack becomes off-fingers to fingers, and ends on a mantle. Either step left here for very easy climbing into the gully, or step right and turn the bulge through another tips crack and up to the chains.
Walkoff up to the left toward Rupley Towers.
EFR's book rates this as 5.9+, but it is solid 5.10. This is a pumpy route with few good stances. The crack takes finger locks okay, but is somewhat shallow in places, and hard to jam.
Standard Rack up to Red Camalot.
|Comments on Asleep at the Wheel
|By Scott Drawz|
Jan 11, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
This route is 9+ not 5.10. Mt. Lemmon needs to maintain a standard here. Don't soft grade please. And yes, I've led this climb.
If you don't believe me, then climb Yosemite or J-treecrack routes.
This route is NOT 5.10.
Not trying to be a jerk, sorry.
|By Jeff Fassett|
Jan 13, 2006
That's because there was no such thing as 9+ in yosemite. The YDS went to 5.9 and only used a,b,c,d upon reaching 5.10 Check out an old yosemite guide book. Personally, I think +- thing below 5.10 is a bit whack.That's about all I got on that,