Wasian School Boys
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Jay Shultis, Alexandra Higgins, Mark Rineer |
Page Views: | 1,311 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Jay Shultis on Jan 26, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Jay Shultis, Pat Goodman, Ray Weber |
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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive
Details
The cliff band is on private property and has recently changed hands, which created some potential access issues. There are a number of "No Trespassing" signs on the land.
The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."
The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.
With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.
The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."
The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.
With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.
Description
Leading this route is a bit heady out the gate but the gear gets better as you go. Climb a 30' slabby buttress up it's left side to a 20' face above. Exit into a narrow gully to the right of a small cherry tree growing out of the rock. This will keep you out of the briars for the topout. Belay and rappel from a huge tree on the right side of the gully. Originally covered in rock tripe, Mark Rineer and I cleaned this in 2003 thinking it would probably need a couple bolts, it appears to be staying fairly clean and climbs cleanly on gear. Crux mantle to get on the route and one tricky section of face climbing off the high ledge near the finish.
Location
Located 20' left of Fat City on a 15' wide buttress. 20' R of trick or Treat dihedral corner crack.
Protection
Lots of interesting gear, but it is all small. I would reccomend double of smaller sizes for a ground up on-sight. I used a mix of small BD C4's & X4's (all 0.5 or smaller) as well as a couple decent ball nuts for the topout after the crux. A 0.1 X4 or small C3's would work for the finish if you do not have ball-nuts. There is a marginal Blue X4 placement in a shallow pod 10' up on the route, after that you can double up on 0.2 cams in the overlap that is in the middle of the slab. This section is not hard but could be the mental crux due to blind/marginal placements.
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