Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Jay Shultis, Alexandra Higgins, Mark Rineer
Page Views: 1,311 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jay Shultis on Jan 26, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Jay Shultis, Pat Goodman, Ray Weber

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Leading this route is a bit heady out the gate but the gear gets better as you go. Climb a 30' slabby buttress up it's left side to a 20' face above. Exit into a narrow gully to the right of a small cherry tree growing out of the rock. This will keep you out of the briars for the topout. Belay and rappel from a huge tree on the right side of the gully. Originally covered in rock tripe, Mark Rineer and I cleaned this in 2003 thinking it would probably need a couple bolts, it appears to be staying fairly clean and climbs cleanly on gear. Crux mantle to get on the route and one tricky section of face climbing off the high ledge near the finish.

Location Suggest change

Located 20' left of Fat City on a 15' wide buttress. 20' R of trick or Treat dihedral corner crack.

Protection Suggest change

Lots of interesting gear, but it is all small. I would reccomend double of smaller sizes for a ground up on-sight. I used a mix of small BD C4's & X4's (all 0.5 or smaller) as well as a couple decent ball nuts for the topout after the crux. A 0.1 X4 or small C3's would work for the finish if you do not have ball-nuts. There is a marginal Blue X4 placement in a shallow pod 10' up on the route, after that you can double up on 0.2 cams in the overlap that is in the middle of the slab. This section is not hard but could be the mental crux due to blind/marginal placements.

Photos

loading