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Ascending & cleaning slanted terrain
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Oct 18, 2010
hey everyone,

looking for some tips on cleaning terrain where a lower-out may not be an option; for example, a traversing or leaning cam hook section that has no fixed piece before the section to sling for a lower-out.

all i can come up with is: second re-leads the hook section, nails and slings his own pin, leaves a cam/nut behind with a sling, or takes a whipper.

any advice?
Joined Oct 15, 2010
5 points
Oct 18, 2010
There are routes where the cleaner needs a set of hooks, too.
It's not that uncommon to "relead" some moves while cleaning, almost always through roofs or traverses.

On the hook or book traverse on sod you just clip the biners in place and pull the rope after leading it.
Seconding it would be more dangerous than leading imo.
From Germany
Joined Mar 18, 2008
4 points
Oct 20, 2010
Take the swing if you can. It's quicker... Otherwise you re lead it...

I just had to take a big swing cause about 25' of pro popped out while I was cleaning.

Joined Nov 29, 2007
22 points
Oct 21, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: P6 Bivy during the massive Rim Fire.
I like to bring a few extra hooks on routes with wandering pitches.

I keep a thin 5 mil cord, roughly 30 feet long with me also.

Attach cord to hook, place hook, weight hook, lower out using the cord.

Done it tons of times, no need to re-lead the pitch (provided you can get a hook on)

removing takes a few flicks of the rope, so don't bury the hook...

Cam hooks do not work very well in this application in my experience.

From sf ca
Joined Jan 29, 2007
483 points
Oct 22, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Big air on the first solo of the sugar cookie: Lat...
learn how to duecy and do it off of hooks. i wouldn't do the uncontrolled swing, seems like a quick way to get the chop. Kristoffer
Joined Feb 2, 2006
46 points

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