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Mickey Mouse Wall
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Asahi 
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Donít Panic It's Organic 
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Hamburger Helper 
Krystal Klyr 
Lifestream 
Mausoleum 
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Offset, The 
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Perilous Journey 
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Three Mousketeers, The 
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Unsorted Routes:

Asahi 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: R. & J. Rossiter
Page Views: 1,443
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 6, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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2nd pitch is more challenging then it appears.
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  • Description 

    On Micky Mouse Wall, almost directly below the Red Dihedral, you will come to a series of bulging flakes rising up and to the left, below a short, right-facing corner. You will see a bolt in this corner, some 30+ feet off of the ground.

    P1: 5.10c, 130 feet. Climb up the flakes on good holds, but some questionable rock. Clip the bolt on the corner with a 1' sling and head left onto the face past the arete. This is the first crux. Face climb up past 5 more bolts, which are liberally spaced. You climb on the left side of the arete and on the face for quite a way, passing another crux. Near the top, you will break even farther left to reach a lower angle crack system which is unprotected but easy. Belay up top from gear, some 20' to the climber's left of a small tree.

    P2: 5.10a, 45 feet. Look directly up to see a thin seam which becomes a left-facing corner with a roof. Go up the seam/corner to the roof then step to the right into a nice section of handcrack. Reach the next ledge & belay from solid gear.

    To descend walk left (West) to a set of cold shuts and rap 80 to a lower ledge. On the lower ledge, walk left (West) and scramble down at the end of that ledge to another set of cold shuts. Rap 80' to the ground.


    Protection 

    The first pitch is bolted, but that's 6 bolts in 130 feet. The first is 35' up and above some 5.10a climbing.... A #4 Camalot and a few stoppers could be placed below it to eliminate what is otherwise a runout.

    The anchor above the first pitch will be yours to build. You should have a cordalette & mixed gear. The rock is not so hot on the ledge.

    P2 is a thin crack and a few hand-jams. Stoppers (some thin will be helpful) and tiny TCUs + a 2.5" cam is the pro. Again, you build your own anchors, so have a few pieces with you.



    Photos of Asahi Slideshow Add Photo
    On the last hard moves on P2. P2 felt harder to us than P1. At Lenny's waist is a few inches of sharp-edged finger crack that, if your fingers fit, would make this easier. For us, it was too thin and too painful, so we had to layback.
    On the last hard moves on P2. P2 felt harder to us...
    BETA PHOTO
    Starting the first crux--moving left around the arÍte.
    Starting the first crux--moving left around the ar...
    The approach to the crux. The #4 Camalot is left of Luke. We traversed left high, as Luke is about to do.
    The approach to the crux. The #4 Camalot is ...
    Racing the shadow up @ the crux.
    Racing the shadow up @ the crux.
    Luke on the crux. It looks easy to step around the arete, but for some reason it's not. The 3 climbers in our party did this move 3 different ways.
    Luke on the crux. It looks easy to step around the...
    Gorgeous autumn day and a gorgeous route, "Asahi", Mickey Mouse
    Gorgeous autumn day and a gorgeous route, "Asahi",...
    Above the crux. Luke's feet are at the 2nd bolt. Luke placed gear up and left, because he didn't see the 3rd bolt, which is somewhat hidden up and right.
    Above the crux. Luke's feet are at the 2nd bolt. L...
    Just after the first crux. The second bolt is to Lenny's left.
    Just after the first crux. The second bolt is to L...
    From here we climbed up and right to the crack and then back left on the face, possibly avoiding an upper crux, but what we did seemed logical. Is this crack on the 9 variation of Linga Line?
    From here we climbed up and right to the crack and...
    Switching cracks is relatively easy. You'll want a #1/red Camalot for the crack on the right.
    Switching cracks is relatively easy. You'll want a...
    Tony Bubb follows the final pitch of Asahi, a short but worthy finish. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 2003.
    Tony Bubb follows the final pitch of Asahi, a shor...
    Mike Keegan passing the first bolt on Asahi.
    Mike Keegan passing the first bolt on Asahi.
    Asahi from uphill.
    Asahi from uphill.
    Taken from the base of the Red Dihedral at the top of the second pitch.
    Taken from the base of the Red Dihedral at the top...
    Comments on Asahi Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2011
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 13, 2001

    Asashi was chopped. Rossiter put the bolts back in.

    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 7, 2002

    Beware of poison ivy at the base of this route.

    By Brian Milhaupt
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 12, 2002

    A three star route when the abundant poison ivy dries up.

    By Ken Heiser
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 16, 2004
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

    I did this route yesterday for the first time. I brought the rack and put in several pieces to [augment] the bolts. For me, even on the upper section of pitch one this would be very runout without placing gear. A #4 Camalot was a key [piece] on the lower trad part. I really liked this route and found it to be very diverse and enjoyable. What we got in exchange for the long hike on Sunday 8/15/04 was a full day at Mickey Mouse with no other parties on the cliff.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 16, 2004
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    Under Perilous Journey, AC says, "Asashi was chopped. Rossiter put the bolts back in." Is this true? What was the controversy?

    By Luke Clarke
    From: Golden
    Oct 18, 2004

    Great route. I give it three stars. Loose rock is low and won't trouble those used to climbing Eldo. The #4 Camalot is perfect for the hand traverse and you'll want a couple nuts or cams in the 1-inch and smaller range to protect between the well-spaced bolts. Second pitch tougher than it looks.

    By Richard Rossiter
    Sep 20, 2006

    Joyce and I put up Asahi during the summer of 1988 with just 3 bolts on the first pitch. The first bolt was originally 30 or 40 feet off the ground (where it is now), but just left of the arete. The bolts and hangers were removed/stolen the next summer (ironically) by two individuals who a few years later obtained a rock drill and began putting up their own bolt protected face climbs. Humans are a strange species, no? I replaced the 3 bolts and hangers within a week of their removal. By the way, the bolts were not "chopped." They were Rawls and were simply backed out with a wrench.

    I returned to Asahi many times with a variety of excellent climbers. No one wanted to lead it with just three bolts in the first 130 feet, so I eventually relented and added three more bolts circa 1997. Joyce and I were mentally and physically conditioned by routes such as Wide Country, X-M, Rain, Disguise, the Metamorphosis, King's X, the Diving Board and the Naked Edge, so 3 bolts in 130 feet of excellent face climbing did not seem in the least under-protected. Perilous Journey 20 feet to the left was more difficult and had no pro at all, so what was the problem?

    For a broader view of the conflicted mentality and events of the day, read the Author's Perspective on page 4, ROCK CLIMBING THE FLATIRONS, Chockstone, A Falcon Guide, 1999 by Richard Rossiter.

    By Ross Keller
    From: Parker, CO
    Nov 9, 2006
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    With supplemental gear, this doesn't rate an R. A worthwhile route.

    By David Yount
    From: Seattle, WA
    Oct 9, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    Asahi 5.10B *** G - Mickey Mouse Wall - Eldorado Canyon - Colorado

    The first pitch has a friendly buffet of 9+ with a brief spike of 10b passing the arete after the first bolt. I believe I found gear every 8 to 10 feet, and with no ledges enroute I would rate this "G" as completely safe for falling on.

    I was somewhat relieved when I found bolt #2 hidden just over a large handhold as I was gunning ever upward for bolt #3.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Sep 20, 2009
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    I did this yesterday for the second time. The first crux seemed quite easy, perhaps since I knew to stay high. There was another confusing crux higher moving right to the arÍte. Both Lenny and I thought P2 was as hard or harder than P1. It was definitely more insecure.

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Nov 26, 2010
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

    This is a super fun face pitch and not runout at all with some supplemental gear.

    By Kevin Gillest
    From: Arvada, CO
    Aug 21, 2011
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

    With 6 bolts, the only minor runout is the start. Great route.