(This description was written by Matthias Graf--I have not climbed the route.)
This is a steep face route with some shark-mouthed pockets. The 5.10a crux is moving beyond the 2nd bolt. Gain a ledge below the third bolt. A forth bolt protects the face to the left of the arete with friendly ledges to the anchors. There is an easier variation by climbing further left of the bolt line and a harder variation just right of the bolt line.
It seems the 5.10a rating is a bit of a joke and poke at the overall over-rating of other routes at Gallows.
This route is located directly to the right of the Unknown Crack Route or 10 feet right of Planet of the Apes. It starts on the upper talus table by scrambling up the blocks right of Planet of the Apes.
4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor with quick links. I suspect the anchors for this route would serve useful for those climbing the unknown crack route to the left of this line.
Matthias on the first go of the route. Aug. 2009.
By Devin Shunk
Sep 22, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fun route. I am not sure about the 10 rating. If you follow the bolt line, this is a straightforward climb. It is a stretch to even call it a 9 in my mind. As the description states, if you climb over to the right of the bolts (almost out of arms reach of them), the climbing is much harder.