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Routes Sorted
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As the Wind Blows 
Caterpillar, The 
Chocolate Decadence 
Ginger's Crack 
Gun for the Sun 
Guns for Nuns 
Mary Ann or Ginger? 
Through the Looking Glass 

As the Wind Blows 

5.8 PG13

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: As the Wind Blows

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Description 

Corner crack, somewhat flared and mealy rock. A bit spicy and listed in the guide as a 5.7. Would not be a route for a fledgling 5.7 leader.


Location 

Obvious left-facing corner to the right of the main Ginger's Face.


Protection 

Standard rack. Old 1/4" bolt/Leeper hanger mid way up route (good candidate for replacement or removal). Top out then down climb horizontal crack to sling anchor on Through the Looking Glass.



Photos of As the Wind Blows Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the fun hand crack section.

Starting the fun hand crack section.

View from the base.

BETA PHOTO: View from the base.

Wide angle of route

Wide angle of route

The approach to Gilligan's Island

The approach to Gilligan's Island


Comments on As the Wind Blows Add Comment
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By Tyler Logan
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.8

Probably the most striking route in the area. Worth doing for its position, exposure and length. An interesting move or two midway up the crack make it seem more like a 5.8 than a 5.7. It is not necessary to clip the old bolt as there are plenty of other protection opportunities. This route can be well protected with a standard rack.

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 9, 2007

Why is this listed as PG-13? There is plenty of pro on this route.

By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 21, 2011

I agree. I am a fairly new leader and thought this route to be easier than other 5.7's such as Mr. Misty Kiss or Double Cross. It is a good line and there is plenty of pro. I wish I had known about that sling anchor instead of downclimbing the backside.