As the cliff turns 5.8
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Todd Swain, Kathy Beuttler, 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Dana Bartlett on May 26, 2009 |
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The upper crux of As the Cliff Turns is on the lef...
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Description Climb a short, thin crack to a large horizontal. Drift up the face (easy) to a good stance at a small, left-facing corner. Climb the crack that starts at the top of the corner (crux) then go up another face to a small alcove capped by a larger roof. After the roof, there is about 20 feet of easy climbing to reach the belay tree.
This doesn't look too appealing, but it has some good quality climbing. The upper roof is pretty big, but not at all difficult.
Location 30-40 feet left of Eastertime, too, and left of the obvious start to Daytripper
Protection Standard 'Gunks rack, nothing very large or very small
| Comments on As the cliff turns |
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By Wormly81
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.8+
| Didn't even recognize this route existed even though I had frequented the proximate area over several years. Although it doesnt look very clean, the route itself is and has some real interesting climbing and good features. May be soft for Gunks 5.9, perhaps due to this route not being polished like some of the more popular routes. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 15, 2013
| Hmmm...I thought the first crux was nineish, second crux equally so. I really enjoyed the climb, but, I did think it was 9ish with two cruxes. |
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