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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Arugula, Arugula 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Keith Becconsall 2011
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 18, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

As it cleans up it's quality will get better. Some junky rock in the roof section is bound to improve with traffic. When I climbed it I picked every hold wrong and it felt mid 5.10 but I looked at it on the way down and it wouldn't have been too hard with the right sequence. A good onsight challenge at the grade.

Start on low angle rock clipping a couple bolts on the way to the roof. Make strenuous moves through the roof hoping to hit the good holds the first time. After pulling the lip it eases off to very moderate but enjoyable climbing to the quick clip anchors.

Location 

Straight through the steepest roof on the right end of the A+D wall.

Protection 

Bolts to quick clip anchor. First bolt is there to help with cleaning. Clip it...


Comments on Arugula, Arugula Add Comment
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By S. Neoh
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is just left of FFF, correct, Lee?
If so, I feel like this route is a bit easier than FFF but climbs a little better.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 19, 2013

yes, thats the route, and interesting, i thought FFF was better :)
I didn't nail the right holds right off though so perhaps after a few more laps it will feel better... mostlt i gave it one less star for the poor rock quality in the steep section...
By S. Neoh
Feb 19, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Darn it, Lee, in light of your response, I have to be a little wishy washy here; I thought the steep section of AA is better but the slab section of FFF is more interesting. How's that for being non-committal? :)
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did this and FFF yesterday. My 2 cents:
AA = slightly harder feeling roof sequence (and more holds to fumble around on), less interesting slab top section.
FFF = Really fun 3 or 4 move roof sequence with a cool hold, much more interesting slab section. FFF wins in my book.

Both felt about 10a.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 2, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Climbed Maltese Falcon, then FFF twice, then this route. AA felt harder than FFF to me. YMMV
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
6 days ago
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I felt that this one has a harder roof section and then more fun slab section than Far From Feral.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
4 days ago
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is without a doubt as hard as Far From Feral whether they are .9+ or .10a is really splitting hairs, I think for both it depends if you get the sequence right. I believe this has better climbing than FFF. Both are nice routes and sure to be crowd pleasers for years to come.