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Sunkist Wall
Routes Sorted
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Arachniphobia T 
Artz vs. Parker T 
Begoon/Cote T 
Bulgarian T 
Country Love S 
Dead Varment T 
Fresh Boy S 
Hand Out, The S 
Hilly Billy S 
Mr. Mogley S 
Opulence T 
Soul Patch S 
Taxi Gaucho S 
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Unknown S 

Artz vs. Parker 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009

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Description 

If you can climb trad at this grade, this one's worth the walk. Start at the overhang directly below the obvious finger crack splitting the upper face. Campus up a move or two, making some committing moves to reach a stance on the face. (no gear for the first 20 feet or so). Place some gear and follow a short hand crack and jugs to reach a great stance in a pod with great hand jams. Sew it up, the business starts here. Work your way up a tips crack with a few difficult finger locks to reach a money lock and then a great horizontal (crux). From here, the difficulty backs down as you follow a tight hands crack with an occasional face hold to the top. (As of 7/09, there were no fixed anchors but a single bomber fixed nut can be used to lower off).

Location 

Once you reach the Sunkist Wall, follow the trail to the right side of the cliff. The crack will be obvious.

Protection 

Mostly small cams and nuts (< 1"). A #3 camalot can be placed in the pod below the crux.


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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 15, 2013

I made the walk down specifically to check out this route. Finger cracks are my favorite syle of climbing and I was disappointed with what I saw. I decided to pass. Maybe I missed out, but it just doesn't look that good.