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Artist's Bluff
Metolius Curved Hex Package Set #1-10

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C.A.M.P. Neve Ice Axe

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Sugoi RPM Jacket - Women's

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Ultralight Offset TCU

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 more Dirtbag Deals

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Artist's Arete 
Brass Balls 
Handy Cap Direct 
Little Monalisa 
Right Side Route 
Special Olympics 
Standard Direct 
Standard Route 
Standard Route 5.10 variation 
Standard route 5.7 variation 
Vincent's Ear 

Artist's Bluff 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 44.1803, -71.6952 Map
Page Views: 6,428. Good page?   
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

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Thunderstorm
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Overcast
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BETA PHOTO: Artist's Bluff as seen from the road...

Description 

Artist's bluff is a beautiful place to spend a day, the view is spectacular... This is likely where it got its name, its seems like a perfect place to set up and paint a landscape... Its best attributes would be some very enjoyable moderate routes and an easy approach and decent...

There are some harder routes in the 5.10 range and even one 5.12 sport route, but the bluff is more well known for its comfortable moderate routes such as the creatively named "standard route" which holds many variations...

The rock is of typical Franconia quality (the more solid variety) nice textured granite... Good solid gear for the most part and some really nice belay ledges...
A perfect place to get on your first trad lead or to bring a friend for a mellow intro to multi-pitch trad climbing...


Getting There 

Take route 93 to exit 34c... This is the same exit as for cannon mt. ski area and Echo Crag... At the stop sign go left, this takes you over the highway... look for a dirt pull out on the right after the bridge... park here and follow the obvious trail... It's only a few minutes to get to the cliff base which will be on your right as you hike up... A trail leads along the base of the cliff from left to right...


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Artist's Bluff:
Artist's Arete   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Standard Route   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Right Side Route   5.6     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Standard route 5.7 variation   5.7 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   
Brass Balls   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Special Olympics   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Handy Cap Direct   5.12     Trad, Sport, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Artist's Bluff

Featured Route For Artist's Bluff
Looking up Handycap Direct...

Handy Cap Direct 5.12  NH : Artist's Bluff
A cool sport route that is a bit out of place (but welcome) at this mostly moderate trad crag... Definitely worth doing...Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a bi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Artist's Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Nicole Hansche at a nice belay on Artist's Bluff...

Nicole Hansche at a nice belay on Artist's Bluff.....

A great view of Franconia Notch and a very cute couple, haha... you can see Echo Crag and a few other cliffs in the back ground... Cannon Cliff is around the corner to the right...

BETA PHOTO: A great view of Franconia Notch and a very cute co...

This marks the more popular routes on artists bluff though there are many variations...

BETA PHOTO: This marks the more popular routes on artists bluf...

After a successful summit be sure to do this boulder problem :) <br /> <br />Part of my ritual here.

After a successful summit be sure to do this bould...

View from the top.

View from the top.

Just another part of the beautiful view from the top.

Just another part of the beautiful view from the t...


Comments on Artist's Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By liam
Aug 17, 2011

FYI: Might be best to drive another 100 yards and pay to park at Echo Lake. We got a $20 ticket for parking in the dirt pull out right by the trail.

By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Aug 31, 2011

The GPS coordinates are: 44.180681,-71.695365

If that is added to the area it will show up on the map.

maps.google.com/maps?q=44.180681,-71.695365&hl=en&sll=43.966>>>

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 13, 2013

Thanks. I shifted them a little to get on the crag. Lee, did I sort the routes correctly? I wasn't quite sure on a couple of them.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 13, 2013

looks good mark... thanks