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 ADVANCED
Artist's Bluff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Artist's Arete T 
Brass Balls T 
Gawking Peepers T,TR 
Handy Cap Direct T,S 
Little Monalisa T,TR 
Right Side Route T 
Special Olympics T,S 
Standard Direct T 
Standard Route T 
Standard Route 5.10 variation T 
Standard route 5.7 variation T 
Vincent's Ear T,S 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Blue Ribbon Trail/Gile Mountain Ridge Trail
One of the best cross-country descents on singletrack in town! Near Lebanon, NH
Gile Mountain and The Blue Ribbon Trail
A stout, switchbacking climb to a fire tower with 360° views and first prize style singletrack. Near Lebanon, NH
Kingdom Trails: Darling Hill Loop
A nice introduction to the Kingdom Trails Darling Hill side in East Burke. Near West Burke village, VT
White School
A nice, scenic trail following the Passumpsic River towards town. Near West Burke village, VT
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A fast, semi-technical downhill through the woods on Burke Mountain. Near Lyndonville village, VT
Kingdom Trails: Mountainside Loop
A great loop on the mountainside of the Kingdom Trails with fantastic downhills and big climbing. Near West Burke village, VT
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Artist's Bluff  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.1803, -71.6952 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,770
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: A great view of Franconia Notch and a very cute co...

Description 

Artist's bluff is a beautiful place to spend a day, the view is spectacular... This is likely where it got its name, its seems like a perfect place to set up and paint a landscape... Its best attributes would be some very enjoyable moderate routes and an easy approach and decent...

There are some harder routes in the 5.10 range and even one 5.12 sport route, but the bluff is more well known for its comfortable moderate routes such as the creatively named "standard route" which holds many variations...

The rock is of typical Franconia quality (the more solid variety) nice textured granite... Good solid gear for the most part and some really nice belay ledges...
A perfect place to get on your first trad lead or to bring a friend for a mellow intro to multi-pitch trad climbing...

Getting There 

Take route 93 to exit 34c... This is the same exit as for cannon mt. ski area and Echo Crag... At the stop sign go left, this takes you over the highway... look for a dirt pull out on the right after the bridge... park here and follow the obvious trail... It's only a few minutes to get to the cliff base which will be on your right as you hike up... A trail leads along the base of the cliff from left to right...

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.1 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Artist's Bluff:
Standard Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Right Side Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Standard route 5.7 variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
Brass Balls   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Special Olympics   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Handy Cap Direct   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Artist's Bluff

Featured Route For Artist's Bluff
Looking up Handycap Direct...

Handy Cap Direct 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  NH : Artist's Bluff
A cool sport route that is a bit out of place (but welcome) at this mostly moderate trad crag... Definitely worth doing...Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a bi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Artist's Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
After a successful summit be sure to do this boulder problem :) <br /> <br />Part of my ritual here.
After a successful summit be sure to do this bould...
Just another part of the beautiful view from the top.
Just another part of the beautiful view from the t...
Nicole Hansche at a nice belay on Artist's Bluff...
Nicole Hansche at a nice belay on Artist's Bluff.....
Artist's Bluff as seen from the road...
BETA PHOTO: Artist's Bluff as seen from the road...
View from the top.
View from the top.
This marks the more popular routes on artists bluff though there are many variations...
BETA PHOTO: This marks the more popular routes on artists bluf...
me of top of echo.  What a view
me of top of echo. What a view

Comments on Artist's Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By liam
Aug 17, 2011
FYI: Might be best to drive another 100 yards and pay to park at Echo Lake. We got a $20 ticket for parking in the dirt pull out right by the trail.
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Aug 31, 2011
The GPS coordinates are: 44.180681,-71.695365

If that is added to the area it will show up on the map.

maps.google.com/maps?q=44.1806...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 13, 2013
Thanks. I shifted them a little to get on the crag. Lee, did I sort the routes correctly? I wasn't quite sure on a couple of them.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 13, 2013
looks good mark... thanks