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Arthur's Rock

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Childbirth (Area at Arthur's Rock) 
Fog that Surrounds 
Main Area (Arthur's Rock) 
Parking Lot Wall (Arthur's Rock) 
Snake and the Skewer 
South Face of Arthur's Rock 

Arthur's Rock 


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Lat, Long: 40.5658, -105.1878 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: martin tikusis on Feb 21, 2009
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Clear
56° | 37°
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Chance of Rain
62° | 38°
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Description 

While Fort Collins' locals have been climbing at Arthurís Rock for decades, the main development phase of bouldering began in 1999, led by Pat Goodman. Since then, Arthurís Rock has remained a cherished and hidden gem frequented by locals but largely unknown to the larger climbing community.

This is a great area for Winter, Spring, and Fall. Conditions can be excellent here in the coldest of winter months due to the sunny south facing aspect of the hillside and cliff. There are rattlesnakes in the summer, and it is generally too hot to climb here. Arthur's Rock is most known for its bouldering, but it also has a small collection of trad and sport routes.

The rock quality at Arthurís Rock has been described as being anywhere from total choss to a granite technician's dream. Mostly a granite conglomerate of several rock types, the climbing tends to be fingery and requires very technical footwork. Small edges, gritty slopers, and the occasional pink knob are the norm for grips around Arthurís Rock.

Check out the comprehensive, online, free to print, guidebook by NC3 here here.
The printed version of the Lory State Park Guidebook is now available at the Lory State Park Visitors Center, Jax Outdoor Gear, and Miramont Fitness North.

The NCCC has worked with Lory State Park to establish the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative. Replacement of old fixed anchors and establishment of new routes that require fixed anchors is now possible through an application process. Please consult the Lory State Park Guidebook for more information.


Getting There 

From downtown Fort Collins, head west on Laporte Ave. until it ends. Turn right on Overland Trail and head north for approximately 2.5 miles. Turn left on Bingham Hill Rd/Co Rd 50E, and go west for 2.0 miles. Turn left onto N Co Rd 23 for 1.2 miles and finally a right onto N Co Rd 25 G. Take 25G for 1.6 miles until you reach the gate for the park. There are signs for Lory State Park after the Bingham Hill turn off Overland Trail.

From the Park entrance, proceed to the Visitor's Center to pay for your day or annual pass. From there, continue down the main road (Lodgepole Dr.) until it dead ends at the parking lot for the Arthurís Rock Trail.


46 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',11],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arthur's Rock:
Easy Flake   V1 5     Boulder, 15'   Parking Lot Wall (Arthur's ...
Warmup Layback   V1 5     Boulder   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Fingerlock Campus Mantel   V3 6A     Boulder   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Shady Arete    V3 6A     Boulder   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Pinchy Warmup   V3 6A     Boulder   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Mainstreet   V5 6C     Boulder   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Last Resort    V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
The Syringe   V6 7A     Boulder, 17'   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Snake and the Skewer   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Snake and the Skewer
Godzilla   V7 7A+     Boulder   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Clutch (aka Double Clutch)   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Ode to Failure   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
Child Birth   V8 7B     Boulder, 20'   Childbirth (Area at Arthur'...
Kiddy Pool   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Blackish Blobs   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Right of Passage   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Edge Of Time   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Rocksie Rocks   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Doom Corner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Face of Arthur's Rock
Tears of a Clown   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Childbirth (Area at Arthur'...
Browse More Classics in Arthur's Rock

Featured Route For Arthur's Rock
Marty, Ode to Failure.

Ode to Failure V8 7B  CO : Fort Collins : ... : Main Area (Arthur's Rock)
This is a really cool line of slopers and crimps on a huge boulder. Start matched on the lowest big sloper (might help to stack some pads), and go up and right to top it out. There is also a line that branches to the left, but I think it's harder....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Arthur's Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Obvious lieback near the start of the trail to Arthur's Rock, CO.
BETA PHOTO: Obvious lieback near the start of the trail to Art...
Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park.
BETA PHOTO: Arthur's Rock, Lory State Park.
Face near the start of the trail to Arthur's Rock, CO.
BETA PHOTO: Face near the start of the trail to Arthur's Rock,...
Unknown problems.
BETA PHOTO: Unknown problems.
Comments on Arthur's Rock Add Comment
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By martin tikusis
Feb 21, 2009

I added this area in hopes of something bigger and better arising. I don't know enough about the area other than a few problems. It's worth the visit. Please help add problems and pictures if you know the area.

By Greg Speer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 10, 2010

Any trad routes at Arthur's?

By the Ascender
From: . . . CO
Dec 13, 2013

Yes. . . and mixed lines. . . and sometimes ice!