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Dirty Crack Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arthritis Sit 
Bloody Phalanges 
Dirty Crack 
Hemolysis - Sit Start 
Stinger Mantis 


Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A [details]
FA: Sam Hayden
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: freezeus on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Crimpy problem just around the corner from Dirty C...

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Start on two quarter-pad crimps just around the left side from Dirty Crack- first problem you come to, from the quarter-pad crimps go with you're left hand up to a intermediate side-pull and get high feet, then with you're right hand get a good side-pull just to the right of the left-hand side-pull, then shoot you're right hand up to a horrible little tiny tenth-pad crimp on a sloper and hold on for dear life while you get a hand up to a crimp to the left of the tenth-pad crimp, get a foot up to the right hand side-pull and top-out on jugs.


just around the left corner/arete from dirty crack


one pad and a spotter

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By Andy McMillan
From: Rutland, VT
Jul 17, 2011

i must say the natural line pulled me left at the top...maybe v2/3?
By freezeus
From: Pittsfield, VT
Jul 19, 2011

Hey Andy - did you start on the two 1/4 pad crimps? If you start on the two side pull rails it goes significantly easier than Sam's rating and if you trend left it goes easier.
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