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ArÍte 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: retrobolted, Clay Wadman and Mark Gay?
Page Views: 2,223
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Leading the Arete. Photo by Eva R.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a beautiful arete running along the west side of the slab. The crux moves are over the roof and getting over the bulge onto the arete about halfway up. It is well worth it.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2 rap rings at the top.


Photos of ArÍte Slideshow Add Photo
Quinn Stevens moving up as darkness falls. Chilly fingers!
Quinn Stevens moving up as darkness falls. Chilly ...
ArÍte.
ArÍte.
Quinn again.
Quinn again.
BETA PHOTO
Quinn once again.
Quinn once again.
@ the crux.
@ the crux.
Glen starting up... <br />2005?
Glen starting up... 2005?
Midway up.
Midway up.

Comments on ArÍte Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 13, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Yes I will comment! This is a fun route! do not bother top-roping, all of the bolts are within reach of good stances and the crux moves are a hoot!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2001
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

...besides the route is only 9+/10a anyway.

Seriously, can ANYONE justify the 10d rating? A pal of mine who leads mostly 5.9s found it to be easy, too.
By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Sep 25, 2001

A good route, did it awhile back. I can't justify the 10d rating but would give it 10b/c, if you are using the holds all over the left face perhaps the route is 10a, but being an arete and doing the route keeping this in mind I think the rating stands. The proper name of the route, just for bookkeeping sakes is "Sunshine Arete".
By Francisco Manzo
Dec 21, 2001

This route, I believe is at least a 10b maybe c if you continue up, staying a bit to the right just beneath the last bolt instead of moving left around the arete then going up and finally coming back around to the right to clip the last bolt. I have seen many people do this including myself. When it is done this way it is definately put at 5.9. If you go straight up an undercling is needed to make a good reach to clip that last bolt.
By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
May 20, 2002

Is this honestly a 10d? The roof is maybe 10a or b. Very cool climb.
By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 18, 2002

5.9 if you've got the crag to yourself, 5.10d (and very run out, senorita) if there are any girls around.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 13, 2003

Are you people seriously debating the ratings of this climb? Is there actually a difference between a closely bolted 5.10 and a closely bolted 5.9? Give it a rest....
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Beta is beta.. is the purpose of the site. There is a big difference between 5.9 and 5.10d when someone who only red points 5.9 is looking for a safe project to work on. They'd probably forgo the 5.10d.
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 14, 2003

Yeah, you're right. After rereading my comment, I realized I sounded like a dick. I just think it's weird that people are trying to downplay others' accomplishments at every level on this website by downgrading everything.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A lot of people on this site, self included also 'upgrade' climbs. I think the tendency over time is to downgrade certain types of climbes from the FA's rating, as easier sequences are discovered. Others will be upgraded, as holds break off. It's just the nature of things.
By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
Sep 23, 2003

Last lead in the dark yesterday. This is by far my favorite .10 in the canyon. Climb it fast and dynamically for some serious fun. I use two slots to the west of the arete, but think that this could be why some think the climb is easier than a 5.10... If you lead 5.9 sport, this climb is a perfect project. If you lead 5.11b, don't use ANYTHING on the left side of the arete and you'll have a challenge, especially at the roof. Rebuttals???
By Clare Shemeta
Oct 22, 2003

Try doing this route WITHOUT using arete holds on the left, and you might agree with the 10d rating. If one chickens out to the left (especially at the roof) it is 9+ in my book. Great climb!
By Bo Johnston
May 13, 2004

What is the bolted route just around and to the left of the Arete. It looks like 5.8 with some easy runouts?? New route with nice anchor up high.
By ac
Jul 21, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The FA of this was done by Clay Wadman and Mark Gay and they rated it 10- and placed only two or three bolts. Mark Rolofson decided it needed more.
By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Oct 18, 2009

You all have sandbags in your pants. The route's a soft 10a, but still 10a up to the 2nd to last bolt, then moving over the roof, yes even with the holds on the arete, is 10b/c. Suckers. Just stay right of the arete, or you're on a different climb.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 13, 2013

Great route. Not .10b if you stay on the arete left side, probably .9+/.10a.