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Penitente - Entrance Area
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Abrazos y Chingazos 
Alien In My Underpants 
Art of Suffering 
Bucket Slave 
Camino De La Sonia 
Captain America 
Color Blind 
Color of Devotion 
Colors Of Emotion 
Dive Right In 
Dos Hombres 
Drill Seeker 
Forbidden Fruits 
French Lesson 
Glutton for Punishment 
Hand Jam Crack 
Illegal Alien 
Iron Cross 
Loony Toons 
Mark's Crack 
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Mission in the Snow 
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Mr. Breeze 
Mr. Wind 
Mysterious Redhead 
Nature Of The Beast, The 
No Regret 
Prick Pocket 
Que Pasa 
Queso Cabeza 
Quetzalcoatl Comes Through 
Rocket Man 
Sangrador, The 
Serpent, The 
Sitting in Limbo 
Tangerine Dream 
That's the Way 
To Err Is Human 
Twist of Fate 
Twist of Feet 
Wages of Sin 
What The Hey 
When the Whip Comes Down 
Whipping Post 
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Art of Suffering 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on May 14, 2005
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I haven't RP'd this thing as of this time, but it seems like every time I go to Penitente, I'm seduced by this tempting boulder problem. This route is singularly unique for the area. It always seems like a good route to try when my fingertips have been schralped (to borrow a phrase).

Located about halfway down the trail to the virgin painting, you can't miss this sharply overhanging roof with two distinct pockets in it. Stick clip the first bolt, then reach for the first big pocket, dyno to the positive two finger...then start the crux...mantling over the lip.

Make sure your tendons are ready for this thing, as the dyno to the two finger could seriously injur you.

I placed a #0 TCU at the very start to keep the rope out of my way. This thing really needs another bolt down low to serve that purpose.


5 bolts or so, two cold shuts at the top.

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