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Leaning Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrowsmith T 
Capital Y T 
Captain Crunch T 
Crucifix T 
Crunch Berries T,S 
Doctor Kildare T 
Dream Landscape T 
Funky Finger Crack T 
Leaning Tower Direct T 
Love Potion 8 T 
Lycra Sheath T,S,TR 
Neckline T 
Noname T 
Second Hand T 
Tenderfoot T 
Tight Rope T 
Wild and Crazy T 
Y, The T 


YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ken Rose, Kenny Stern 1974
Page Views: 1,393
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: route photo

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>


Great climb with some nice friction opportunities. Sometimes you can even get in a little chimneying in.


The left side of Leaning tower. If you follow the trail a little to the left you will find big slab and nice spot to lace up. Climb up to the corner and set a belay. The second pitch has a couple of options that are really not very good.

Scramble off to the south or rap at Lycra sheath (not recommended unless your TRing it).


All Gear, standard rack.

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By CalebSimpson
Apr 26, 2009

Where is the 5.8 move on this route? I have climbed 5.6 routes in the Wichita's that I had a harder time with than this. I felt it was just a really sustained 5.7. Great route though and the view from up top is amazing. From what I hear many variations exist for toping out on the second pitch. We went left up a polished face easily seen from the belay ledge. Rigging the belay here was tricky, but the anchor was solid. This is now one of my favorite climbs in the Wichita Mountains.
By LanceSullins
From: Ridgway, CO
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I concur, the corner was tricky but didn't seem harder than 5.7. Also, it was well protected.
By Brent Butcher
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agreed definitely along the lines of a 5.7 not a 5.8.
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you traverse right after the P1 belay and go up the face/shallow gully, the climbing is easy with great exposure.

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