Arrowplane 

This route is what alpine climbing is all about. Long, sustained, scary climbing in the middle of nowhere. I did this climb a couple days ago, and it felt like a first ascent. Route finding proved to be very difficult, though the headwall to which to finish was obvious. After a couple of scary runout pitches on bad gear, my partner and I decided we must not be on route but getting up to the headwall, we soon realized that flared is just the name of the game on this route. Justin, to give this 3 stars, you must be quite a fan of flared, awkward cracks in the most beautiful setting. Though the climbing was awkward and scary, the moves eventually open themselves up and the exposure on the headwall is incredible. Bring an extra sling and biner for the first rappel if you have a hard time rapping on a single sling and biner, though they are in good condition and just below a block keeping them out of the weather. The descent down 3rd and 4th class terrain to Black Lake is difficult at night even with headlamps since it is very easy to cliff out. The "trail" consists of elk trails, bushwacking, and scrambling up scree. If you are looking for an adventurous climb on a beautiful wall with an amazing setting and you are comfortable with 5.11 climbing with difficult gear, this will probably be a 3 star route for you. Shaun Reed

No offense Shaun, but those cracks ain't flared.

Let's face it, the protection is terrible, and the rock is poor. It's really not that cool up there. Everyone should stay away. And you, what do you know from "flaring," you strange little person. Try not to take it all so personally, eh? These rocks, they are pretty nice, but they do not need your protection.

Maybe this climb not as good as you hoped? ....Vaya con Dios

I partnered with [Shaun] this past weekend to do [Arrowplane] and his [description] of the route was completely accurate. Bicker and call names, but this simple fact of the matter is there was not a three star pitch on the entire route. To be placed in such a category, the quality of rock should be well above par coupled with enjoyable movement across stone. The setting and the pure adventure of the entire climb should allot it at least one star but a three star description such as in [Gillett's] "High Peaks" and this web site will only set future parties up [for disappointment]. That being said, I would also like to add that simply because you yourself, or Shaun and I in this case, embarked and returned from such a wild place as the Arrowhead region, does not mean that we should send others out blindly and with incorrect beta.-Will Butler

That's a shame you were disappointed by such a terrific route, but it's no excuse to call your opinion a "simple fact". If I were you, I would turn my back on Glacier Gorge and never return. Try the High Sierra.

Ok, this is getting weird. This climb is unbelievably beautiful. The last pitch alone would make it an absolute classic (ropelength of splitter hands & fingers hundreds of feet off the deck), but the clean, gorgeous pitches below make it a real gem. The perfect, clean 10a splitter? The sexy 5.8 fist crack? The wild 10 corner? The flawlessly enervating runout slab on pitch 1? Nothing flaky or flaring about those pitches. There are some occasional lichen crumbs, but this here's an alpine route.

The cracks really are clean, deep, and oftentimes parallel-sided. Mmm good. Go see for yourself!

I think these two guys might have gotten a little rattled by the occasional, spicy runouts (1st pitch esp.!!) . while they are all on moderate ground, they could inspire panic & loathing at the thought of returning.

Or perhaps some trousers were filled? Some shorts soiled? Terribly slow progress was made? All of which really can make a climb "suck" in hindsight.

It is obvious what the "[Estes] boys" are trying to do here. And I am sure that all of you are from Estes, grew up in Estes, and have a "Native" sticker on your car.

I think you mean the opposite of 'enervating', actually. My American Heritage gives 'enervate' "to weaken or destroy the energy or vitality of."

The word just doesn't mean what most people think it does when they hear it.

With all due respect, his use of the word enervating is applicable to his statement. Unless you are Peter Croft or Dean Potter, dealing with runouts tends to have an enervating effect. The idea that he meant the opposite of enervate is non-sensible. I understood his comment, perfectly. KC

I used "enervating" specifically and deliberately to express my meaning. KC got it precisely: the runouts on this route may tend to "weaken" one's focus/resolve/grasp on reality. Of course, that's not to say that this route is anything but absolutely, drop-dead gorgeous. Go do it, you'll see what I mean.

Cheers, thanks for the musings about word-meanings, I love that stuff.

Arrowplane was one of the best routes I've ever done in the Park. Regarding the first statement posted on this page: It's true that the first pitch is spicy and there are a few other run out moves (before the short 10c pitch, for example), but there's solid gear all over that thing. Also, I thought the route finding was straightforward (using topos from Bernard Gillett's guide book), and the route was clean and gorgeous. I was really impressed with the quality of the cracks. I didn't find the cracks to be flared at all. In fact, the last 11a pitch had incredible jams all over it. All I can say is, wow.

I climbed the route yesterday. I agree with Lizzy. It's a little more runout than Bernard's book makes it seem. The first pitch, in particular, isn't hard but is dangerous. And as Lizzy says, getting into the corner of the short pitch is dicey, as a single nut is the only pro for the traverse. Route finding isn't particularly desperate, but a few key elements help. On pitch two, you traverse down to the lowest part of the roof above a big, grass hummuck. Pull it here and head upwards and right for 20 feet to the obvious golden roof (you're not actually pulling the golden roof right after the traverse). On the next pitch, you are aiming for small flake with a spike (not the obvious pillar on the left). The flake with spike is about 12 feet to the right.
From this point on, you won't get lost.

Definitely a classic line, but do not underestimate the first pitch. Be ready to run it out 40 feet on 5.8 slab. Early in the season, we had to traverse a hanging snow patch to get to the base. Although the route was completely dry, our shoes were slightly wet and the first pitch was a bit terrifying. A fall from the runout portion is not an option.

We did not find an existing rappel route. Weather was building, so we set the following:

-From low point on Arrowhead/McHenry saddle, go west 60 ft.
-1st rappel: Two stoppers, blue cordelette. 195 ft rappel. Rappel slightly left. Tie knots! This is a full rope stretch rappel.
-2nd rappel: Three stoppers, orange cordelette. 180 ft rappel. This lands you on tiered ledges. Start walking.

Hopeful that this will remain. We used care in building solid stations. It is a straightforward rappel line.

The climbing is excellent! Great position in Glacier Gorge. We found some wet rock and vegetation in the middle pitches, par for the course in alpine. As stated above, getting into the 5.10 corner is dicey. Be solid here. Overall good rock quality, run out in spots but decent/good gear at the hardest parts.