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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FA(crack): Stew Sayah, Bob F. Poirier, Bob W. Poirier, Steve Zadrick, 9/1973
Page Views: 906
Submitted By: Maura on Jan 20, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: This is the climb continuing above the shallow roo...

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Jam up the crack, past a shallow roof and out through the arrowhead. Follow the crack up to a ledge, and face climb the rest of the way.


There are several trees at the top of the cliff that can make for a good anchor, but bring lots of webbing or static line because they're set back 20'+.

Photos of Arrowhead Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up from the start of Arrowhead, note the biner to give a prospective of the size of the jam crack.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the start of Arrowhead, note the b...
BETA PHOTO: Arrowhead
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By Jim O'Brien
From: Branford, CT
Mar 1, 2007

Short route, the start is a great jam as you work over the bulge

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Aug 16, 2008

with a bolt or two on the upper face, this route could be classic. nasty but fun offwidth to a good crack then to a cruxy face that takes you to the top of the block where after stepping over the 4' gap you get another 10' of good crack climbing to the trees.

By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2009

FA(crack): Stew Sayah, Bob F. Poirier, Bob W. Poirier, Steve Zadrick, 9/1973
FA(using Doomsday wide crack to top): Ken Nichols, Chris Stone, 11/1975
FA(adding face to top, 5.8 R): Bob Clark, Mike Lapierre, 9/1981

By Kurtz
Jul 12, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Warning: There's a boulder with a nasty pointed edge at the base of the climb. If/when you pop off the opening moves without a real tight belay, you'll get it in the back. Ask someone to spot you or have your belayer sit on the point until you clear the off-width.