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DescriptionArrowhead is the name given to a collection of spires in the Spearhead Cirque attached to McHenry's via its northeast ridge, directly above Black Lake. Up until a few years ago not many routes had been put up here, probably due to the long approach and relatively short climbs (most are 4 to 5 pitches in length). Recently, however, the abundance of clean, aesthetic lines compacted into a relatively small area has drawn droves of first-ascentionists looking for virgin rock in an otherwise mostly climbed-out Park. The rock here is quality granite, and if the entire formation were picked up and moved to a place like Lumpy Ridge there would already be 100 named routes on it. Getting ThereTo get there, park or take the shuttle to the Glacier Gorge lot and follow the trail that goes to Black Lake via Mills Lake. Once at the lake, skirt around the right side and scramble up directly underneath the long prominent fracture which leads straight upslope to the base of Arrowhead. Once at the beginning of the fracture, work your way diagonally left up grassy ledges until you're up in the cirque near the base of the rock. From here, you can either head up and left to access routes along the ridge connecting Arrowhead to McHenry's, or scramble up and right for the routes above Black Lake. You can also head up the left side of Black Lake as if you're going to Spearhead, but it's farther and takes more time. For routes on the far right side of Arrowhead, bushwack up and right from Black Lake. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arrowhead:
Shelf Cirque Traverse Easy 5th Trad, Alpine, 19475 feet, Grade III
East Face/Arrowhead 5.4 Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Glacier Gorge Traverse 5.7+ Trad, Alpine, 5000 feet, Grade IV
Artemis 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
Warhead 5.9 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III
Rain Dance 5.9 Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Watership Down 5.9+ Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge 5.10a Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1300 feet, Grade III
Shoshone 5.10- Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Full Metal Jacket 5.10c Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 320 feet, Grade III
Bequeathed 5.10d R Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 850 feet, Grade III
Sidewinder 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Arrowplane 5.11a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
The Godfather 5.11a/b PG13 Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III
Airhead 5.11d Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet
Ithaca 5.12a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For Arrowhead
Glacier Gorge Traverse 5.7+ CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Arrowhead
This is the MEGA-COOL Ridge traverse of the Glacier Gorge cirque.Starting with Arrowhead and cruising the ridge crest all the way over to Long's. It's a great long day at altitude, with some wonderful and exposed scrambling/climbing. It incorporates a few classic routes, including the North Ridge of McHenry's (5.4?),the West Ridge of Pagoda (5.7), and the Southwest Ridge of Long's (5.6).There are several ways to run this ridge.I like to start at Arrowhead, and go counter-clockwise, ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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