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Arrowhead is the name given to a collection of spires in the Spearhead Cirque attached to McHenry's via its northeast ridge, directly above Black Lake. Up until a few years ago not many routes had been put up here, probably due to the long approach and relatively short climbs (most are 4 to 5 pitches in length). Recently, however, the abundance of clean, aesthetic lines compacted into a relatively small area has drawn droves of first-ascentionists looking for virgin rock in an otherwise mostly climbed-out Park. The rock here is quality granite, and if the entire formation were picked up and moved to a place like Lumpy Ridge there would already be 100 named routes on it.
To get there, park or take the shuttle to the Glacier Gorge lot and follow the trail that goes to Black Lake via Mills Lake. Once at the lake, skirt around the right side and scramble up directly underneath the long prominent fracture which leads straight upslope to the base of Arrowhead. Once at the beginning of the fracture, work your way diagonally left up grassy ledges until you're up in the cirque near the base of the rock. From here, you can either head up and left to access routes along the ridge connecting Arrowhead to McHenry's, or scramble up and right for the routes above Black Lake. You can also head up the left side of Black Lake as if you're going to Spearhead, but it's farther and takes more time. For routes on the far right side of Arrowhead, bushwack up and right from Black Lake.
21 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Arrowhead
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Arrowhead:
Glacier Gorge Traverse 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine, 5000'
Rain Dance 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, Grade III
Warhead 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'
Arrowplane 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'
Airhead 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'
Ithaca 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'
Featured Route For Arrowhead
Arrowplane 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Arrowhead
This superb route is located on the clean, left hand side of Arrowhead, left of the Summit Ramp. There are several stellar lines up this part of the cliff, including Ithaca (12a) and Airhead (11d). Ithaca is probably the most distinct of all the lines in the area, as it follows the long, left-facing corner system left of Arrowplane.This is a brilliant and sustained climb on excellent granite. The rock on this wall is like a steeper version of Lumpy. Orange ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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