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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airhead T 
Arrowplane T 
Artemis T 
Bequeathed T 
East Face/Arrowhead T 
Full Metal Jacket T 
Gimme Shelter T 
Glacier Gorge Traverse T 
Godfather, The T 
Ithaca T 
Lost Arrowhead T 
Rain Dance T 
Ramp Tramp T 
Refugium T 
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge T 
Shaft, The T 
Shoshone T 
Sidewinder T 
South Ramp T 
V-Free T 
Warhead T 
Watership Down T 
Unsorted Routes:

Arrowhead Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,642'
Location: 40.2683, -105.65 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 73,211
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Dec 22, 2001  with updates from Ken Duncan
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Arrowhead is the name given to a collection of spires in the Spearhead Cirque attached to McHenry's via its northeast ridge, directly above Black Lake. Up until a few years ago not many routes had been put up here, probably due to the long approach and relatively short climbs (most are 4 to 5 pitches in length). Recently, however, the abundance of clean, aesthetic lines compacted into a relatively small area has drawn droves of first-ascentionists looking for virgin rock in an otherwise mostly climbed-out Park. The rock here is quality granite, and if the entire formation were picked up and moved to a place like Lumpy Ridge there would already be 100 named routes on it.

Getting There 

To get there, park or take the shuttle to the Glacier Gorge lot and follow the trail that goes to Black Lake via Mills Lake. Once at the lake, skirt around the right side and scramble up directly underneath the long prominent fracture which leads straight upslope to the base of Arrowhead. Once at the beginning of the fracture, work your way diagonally left up grassy ledges until you're up in the cirque near the base of the rock. From here, you can either head up and left to access routes along the ridge connecting Arrowhead to McHenry's, or scramble up and right for the routes above Black Lake. You can also head up the left side of Black Lake as if you're going to Spearhead, but it's farther and takes more time. For routes on the far right side of Arrowhead, bushwack up and right from Black Lake.

Climbing Season

For the Glacier Gorge area.

Weather station 7.8 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Arrowhead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Arrowhead:
Glacier Gorge Traverse   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5000'   
Rain Dance   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   
Warhead   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   
Ripsaw/Northeast Ridge   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1300'   
Arrowplane   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   
The Godfather   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   
Airhead   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   
Ithaca   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Arrowhead

Featured Route For Arrowhead
Rock Climbing Photo: McHenry's and Arrowhead from the south.

Arrowplane 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Arrowhead
This superb route is located on the clean, left hand side of Arrowhead, left of the Summit Ramp. There are several stellar lines up this part of the cliff, including Ithaca (12a) and Airhead (11d). Ithaca is probably the most distinct of all the lines in the area, as it follows the long, left-facing corner system left of Arrowplane.This is a brilliant and sustained climb on excellent granite. The rock on this wall is like a steeper version of Lumpy. Orange ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Arrowhead
Photos of Arrowhead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Arrowhead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Arrowhead East Face on 3/3/05
BETA PHOTO: Arrowhead East Face on 3/3/05
Rock Climbing Photo: Arrowhead from the Arrowhead Arete on McHenry's.
Arrowhead from the Arrowhead Arete on McHenry's.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alpenglow on the Arrowhead.
Alpenglow on the Arrowhead.
Rock Climbing Photo: Seeking info vs. possible FA.  We climbed a direct...
Seeking info vs. possible FA. We climbed a direct...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arrowhead
Rock Climbing Photo: S face of Arrowhead, seen from Dog Star on McHenry...
BETA PHOTO: S face of Arrowhead, seen from Dog Star on McHenry...
Rock Climbing Photo: Possible FA? Looking up the prominent LFD on pitch...
Possible FA? Looking up the prominent LFD on pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: From left to right: McHenry's, Arrowhead, and That...
BETA PHOTO: From left to right: McHenry's, Arrowhead, and That...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arrowhead from the top of the valley on the approa...
Arrowhead from the top of the valley on the approa...
Rock Climbing Photo: S Face (right) on 9/3/01
BETA PHOTO: S Face (right) on 9/3/01
Rock Climbing Photo: Proposed new route.
Proposed new route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Arrowhead from Long's Peak's Keyhole Ridge.
Arrowhead from Long's Peak's Keyhole Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: [Arrowhead] near Black Lake.
[Arrowhead] near Black Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning mist.
Morning mist.
Rock Climbing Photo: Arrowhead.

Comments on Arrowhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By L. Hamilton
Nov 5, 2004
Yep, that's McHenrys at left and Arrowhead in the middle. The right-hand "mountain" in Ernie's photo is actually two mountains, I believe -- a low ridge descending from Thatchtop, at far right; and the higher, snow-streaked summit behind it, which is Powell Peak (see Powell Peak and Snark descriptions for photos of the E face of Powell).
By Josh Janes
Aug 29, 2008
The two raps from the low point on the McHenry's-Arrowhead saddle can be done with a single 70m rope (despite the recommendations for having two 60m ropes in the descriptions for Ithaca, Airhead, and Arrowplane) and a little bit of very easy down climbing after the second rappel.
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Jan 24, 2011
I'm seeking some input before I dare suggest we did an FA up here. Scott Kimball and I climbed a 3 pitch route (8-1-10 up a fairly plumb LFD on the shortest part of the Arrowhead south-facing wall. It's about 200' right of the rap line. It's such an obvious line that it seems hard to believe it wasn't already done. In fact, we thought we heard rumor that maybe Pete Takeda had done something in this area?? See photo for route. Most of the climbing was 5.9 with a few short moves of low-5.10. Community comment is welcome.
By Alex Shainman
Sep 4, 2011
I second the recommendation that one 70m rope does work well for the "low-point" raps starting under the big visor block, which is marked by a large cairn.

Be advised you will have to downclimb maybe 5.5ish terrain after rap #2.

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