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Arresting Start to a Noble Finish
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 8
votes
Routes in The Other Place (CLOSED)
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[Redacted] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Accusing the Innocent S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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All Tuckered Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Arresting Start to a Noble Finish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Astrolube Sex Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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B-52 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Beetle Byway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Champollion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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D.D. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Danger Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dark Time S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Depth Charge S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eddie's Slab S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eeyore Got the Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enchanted Forest S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Flaming Pellets S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hook, Line, and Sinker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hope Pathology S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hundred Acre Wood S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krag Kommander S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Low Brow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Macauley's Irish Stout S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Makes You Figure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Malt Extract S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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My First Eleven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Mexican Rodeo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Scratch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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P38 Lightning S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Plumb Pudding S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Potato Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pulp Friction. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ring Worm S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roof of Death T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rosetta Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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SR71 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Stolen Tiggers T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Submarine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Teeter S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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There's a Thing on the Wing of this Plane S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tooter TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Treeiage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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U-Boat S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Warm, Warm Disco S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Way of the Beaver, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Mark Stevenson 2002 |
| Page Views: | 902 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | ChrisHau on Sep 7, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay |
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Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Description
The "arresting start" involves a bouldery sequence that can be done coming in from the right or the left. After getting a breather on jugs above the first bolt, commit (carefully) to a sequence on slot edges to the second bolt. A dynamic move gives way to a mantel onto a ledge.
Thirty feet of easy climbing through bad rock lead to a tricky sequence involving some longer reaches on steep terrain and a somewhat awkward maneuver to get established under the intimidating roof. Thankfully, the "noble finish" is far easier than it appears; just follow the line of epoxied buckets and enjoy the position.
Pull over the lip, clip the anchors, and then contemplate the most difficult crux of the route: how to clean it.
Good movement at the beginning and end, marred by some poor rock and copious glue.
Thirty feet of easy climbing through bad rock lead to a tricky sequence involving some longer reaches on steep terrain and a somewhat awkward maneuver to get established under the intimidating roof. Thankfully, the "noble finish" is far easier than it appears; just follow the line of epoxied buckets and enjoy the position.
Pull over the lip, clip the anchors, and then contemplate the most difficult crux of the route: how to clean it.
Good movement at the beginning and end, marred by some poor rock and copious glue.
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