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Arresting a Crevasse Fall

Original Post
Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

Not sure if this is already posted, & I don't care much to parse through the myriad of threads. I thought this was an interesting vid and thought I'd share:

rockandice.com/video-galler…

I don't get out on snow, ice, etc. too often, but am curious; anyone have experience with arresting a similar fall? How'd it go? Any tips?

Brad Ward · · New Hampshire · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 200

I have arrested a fall in a rope team of 2 in a similar situation to the video.
I jumped over a crevasse and continued on. I was uphill and on an icy slope (this is not ideal) as my partner attempted the same jump. I could see he took off awkwardly and immediately realized he was essentially going to jump into the crevasse. The rope was taught and we had a fair bit between us so I had time to react (twice as much rope as in the video). I was ripped off my feet much like in the video. I had 2 ice tools and tried to do basic self arrest with one tool only to have it fly out my hands (leashed) against the impact of the ice. I then resorted to trying to arrest the fall with basically an ice climber's swing. It worked and I set up an anchor to haul him out. Not fun.

Lessons:
-Snow and ice conditions vary a lot and it might be good to think about how you would arrest someone in powder snow vs. bullet hard neve.
-If you think there is any chance of falling in a crevasse and your in a bad position to arrest the fall, put in a picket or ice screw for a running belay.
-Travel in a group of 3 or more.
-My friend didn't have a lot of experience on glaciers and this probably contributed to being less confident or nervous about jumping over black holes.
-Don't jump into crevasses. (most falls I've arrested usually are someone putting their foot through, not free falls).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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