Around the Corner
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The route consists of a slab to a nicely featured face and then finishes up a steep corner. Dave Penny discovered the route when he bailed right around a corner from a 5.12 project. Under heavy lichen he found nicely featured rock, which he used to climb up and retrieve his top rope anchor.
Pitch 1: Step up on nice rock to clip the first bolt. Step onto the ledge and lay the crack back to the right (protected by cams). When the crack ends, step left onto the face with nicely featured rock protected by bolts. Surmount the face onto a ledge. Follow the corner up past three bolts ( crux) to join the last bolt and anchor on Tree Keys.
Hike left along the cliff past Robinson Crusoe. As the trail goes uphill to Wanderlust take a left on a separate trail. The first route you come to is Easy As Pudding Pie. Continue along the cliff gradually uphill and look for a tree close to the cliff with keys embedded in the trunk near eye level. This is Tree Keys. Around the Corner starts 15 ft left of Tree Keys, directly in front of the beech tree.
8 bolts, 1 or 2 cams, 1 optional cam before exit, or just pull on thru. Cams are small to mid
From: Barrington, NH
Oct 27, 2013
Fun crux move - the only bit that would merit 5.10. Cams not really needed - route is very well protected w/ bolts.
By Rob Albert
Aug 21, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leave the cams on the ground. This is an extremely well bolted (at the crux) route. MUCH easier if tall!