Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Alden Pellet
Page Views: 2,212 total · 13/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore

You & This Route


8 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

The original rating is 11b which I feel quite sandbagged. I would call it at least 5.11c but will leave it at 11b/c to be fair to the first ascentionist (this route feels as hard as Afro Samurai to me).

To get to the base of the route you will have to do a 5.8/5.9 intro mixed gear/trad route to an anchor (it can technically be done in one long 90+ foot pitch). If you go straight up it is a different route that is 10c (forget the name). So traverse right into the intro slab, clip the first bolt and continue for another 25 feet or so with some thin, sketchy gear in marginal cracks before reaching the next set of bolts. From there you have 5 or 6 more bolts to the anchor (can't remember exactly) and the physical part begins. Crimpy sustained face climbing and a hard boulder problem over a bulge leads to yet more crimpy face climbing and eventually the anchors. Congratulations for reaching the anchor! Enjoy the view....

Location Suggest change

You do not have to climb the 5.4 choss pile to get to the start of this route (if you go that far you have gone too far up the trail) but you do have to do a 5.9 mixed bolted/gear face climb to get to the base of it so absolutely bring trad gear (nuts and cams) up to 1.5 inch.

Protection Suggest change

Thin nuts and small cams (purple metolius) as well as medium size cams (orange metolius). I don't remember sizes that well, just gear colors so bring plenty of smaller gear up to 1.5 inches.

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