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Brownstone Wall
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Armatron T 
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Time's Up T 

Arms Reduction 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,493
Submitted By: Karsten on May 2, 2007

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Andrew Gomoll climbs up the second pitch on the FA...

Description 

Arms Reduction is a refreshing variation to the overbolted lower pitches of Armatron. It climbs up surprisingly fun moves on good rock that protects reasonably too. Perhaps I am a little biased but I feel it is better climbing in better style than Armatron's lower pitches.

Pitch 1, 195ft, 5.9 -Begin by face climbing up 15ft to a moon shaped arching crack. Move up the crack. As the crack starts to arch left move rightward out of the crack onto the face. Above the moon-shaped feature are two left leaning parallel cracks. Continue up and right to the rightmost of the parallel cracks. Continue up this crack until you reach a small sloping ledge for a belay.

Pitch 2, 160ft, 5.9 Move straight up the crack into the chimney on nice huecos. When you reach a bush move out left onto the chocolate face. Move straight up the featured face until you reach a small ledge with the Armatron anchors to your left.

Pitch 3 Rappel or continue up the boltless upper pitch of Armatron for another pitch of good climbing.


Location 

This route starts about 50ft right of (bolted)Armatron. Look for an obvious arching crack to the right of dark rock.

Rappel Armatron.


Protection 

A standard rack to 3" and a set of micronuts



Photos of Arms Reduction Slideshow Add Photo
Overview of Armatron and Arms Reduction.  Photo by John Hegyes!
BETA PHOTO: Overview of Armatron and Arms Reduction. Photo by...
Andrew Gomoll preparing to exit the moon feature on the first ascent.
Andrew Gomoll preparing to exit the moon feature o...
Andrew Gomoll on the first ascent.  Above and left of him is the super cool Armatron headwall.
Andrew Gomoll on the first ascent. Above and left...
Where p2 takes the right crack, we opted to climb the left crack.
BETA PHOTO: Where p2 takes the right crack, we opted to climb ...
Comments on Arms Reduction Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2007

Regarding Armatron, you have to consider the mindset of the first ascent. They had no idea what pro would be on the wall and were probably assuming the upper part would be pretty blank. As they got higher and saw more and more features, they stopped placing bolts. In hindsight, it is easy to see that the bolts on the first pitch aren't necessary. Beyond the first pitch, I didn't think there are any unnecessary bolts.

Great job with this new route, now I have to get back up there to do it some day. Brownstone Wall may have the highest average star rating of any crag on this web site (with more than 5 routes)!

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 12, 2007

No bolts were placed (or needed) on the FA of this route variation.

By OKClimber
From: Folsom
Mar 2, 2008

Did this route due today....boy what a dissappointment! From the prior reviews I thought it would be more enjoyable. The first pitch didnt seem to protect as well as the first pitch on Armatron, and there wasnt an anchor at the top of the first pitch.

At the top of the first pitch of Arms Reduction, we traversed over to join Armatron midway through the second pitch. Boy what fun! As we were rapping we scoped the first pitch of Armatron and it looked stellar, certainly a LOT better than Arms Reduction.

My advice...do Armatron! The bolts are placed in convenient places, in my opinion, and the rest of the pitches protect very well.

Cheers :o)

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 29, 2009

This route provides two long (almost 200' each) pitches of fun. Above p2 another 200 foot pitch gets you to Humerus Ledge where you have several choices on how to conclude the climb with a short pitch (5.6, 5.8, or 5.9) up the summit block. We opted for the 5.8 hand crack on the left side. It's possible to rap from the top of the summit block and down Armatron with 2 ropes but I recommend the walk off - scenic and very quick.

By Zappatista
Nov 6, 2011

If hating bolts was an Olympic sport, these guys would be sporting medals like Flav sports clocks.

But it's not. I think I would have liked this description more if there were more pictures of people scowling at bolts...ah, well, Hot Flash has 'em.