Arms M. Bargo
|105 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 60 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10+ C1 [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb (the route was not followed)|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Feb 9, 2007|
The available printed information about this route is partially incorrect. The route would go free and the rock is not too low in quality to climb. The climb also does not turn into an "aidfest" to get to the top. To the contrary, I think it needs some minor cleaning and would go free without a major problem or effort. I suspect it would be 5.10+ or 5.11. Not a big deal for any good trad climber. There is some poor rock along this that should be cleaned though.
This was the very last rock I ever touched in the red before my departure in 1995, and the fact of the matter is that I got out from underneath the roof in a massive and sudden downpour- the reason for not finishing the route free was as simple as that. It was raining and so I sat down on a piece of gear, hauled up a raincoat, then began the task of lowering off, leaving one hex (#8 or #9?) behind.
Climb up under a roof and then outward under the roof to transition to a wall on the left side in a scrunch problem. The moves get gradually more difficult until you are out from under the roof.
The route is named after Jerry Bargo in honor of the fact that he had more or less pointed out all of the unclimbed stuff in that area to us, including Willie's Wall, Jazz Rock (you know, Jas' Rock), and this wall.
Not far left of Boogered is the only other obvious roof and crack problem. Bag the FFA, orI uess I'll get it next time I am around...
A standard light rack- it's hardly traveled, so heads up.