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Armory Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Armory Wall
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Caltroponin S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Catapult S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Court Jester S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crossbow S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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In Depends Pants Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pike, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sabre S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Space Pants S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trebuchet Tricks S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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War Hammer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Elevation: | 7,904 ft |
| GPS: |
38.98947, -119.9091 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 26,620 total · 287/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
The Armory Wall has some of the most featured rock here, providing somewhat steep routes with deep solid jugs that rate 5.5-5.8. There is more shade in the morning or by trees at Space Pants 5.8 and the gully where Court Jester 5.8 is found. Like the Village Wall, Armory has good elevation, but it has more West facing routes which offer wider views of the Lake.
Note that routes Left/North of Space Pants 5.8 are very difficult to approach with a dog and "The Platform" may not be a safe area for kids or dogs depending on age and behavior.
Note that routes Left/North of Space Pants 5.8 are very difficult to approach with a dog and "The Platform" may not be a safe area for kids or dogs depending on age and behavior.
Getting There
Look for cairns Left of the trail immediately after the Castle Gates (about 20 feet). This trail will take you down to the main approach trail at the base of Castle Rock; follow the cairns down through the East Gully. At the base of the East Gully you will meet the main climbing area trail where you turn Right. Continue on this trail past the base of the main crag (Village Wall). Walk along the top of a fallen tree to a trail continuing along the base of the crag.
The first route you will be able to see (Court Jester 5.8) starts in a gully with a giant chockstone (about the size of a VW Bug) suspended above the belayer's stance and has a 3' roof 2/3 up the route. This is the South East side of Armory Wall.
Continue along the base to the South West corner of this area to find start of The Pike 5.9 which is next to a tree (note that the 1st pitch of The Pike is about 5.6).
Turn the corner and follow the West side of the crag past Space Pants 5.8. The trail goes up through a "corner" between the crag and a large boulder where a tree grows. Climb up through this corner. If you brought a dog, you will have to carry/pass them up this part--quite challenging as you need your hands to climb it. Once you come up to level ground from there, go straight to find Untitled 5.7, then Catapult 5.7 just beyond a tree in a corner, or hike up "The Platform" on your Right to find Cross Bow 5.5, Sabre 5.6, and War Hammer 5.8.
Note that "The Platform" may not be a safe area for kids or dogs depending on age and behavior.
The first route you will be able to see (Court Jester 5.8) starts in a gully with a giant chockstone (about the size of a VW Bug) suspended above the belayer's stance and has a 3' roof 2/3 up the route. This is the South East side of Armory Wall.
Continue along the base to the South West corner of this area to find start of The Pike 5.9 which is next to a tree (note that the 1st pitch of The Pike is about 5.6).
Turn the corner and follow the West side of the crag past Space Pants 5.8. The trail goes up through a "corner" between the crag and a large boulder where a tree grows. Climb up through this corner. If you brought a dog, you will have to carry/pass them up this part--quite challenging as you need your hands to climb it. Once you come up to level ground from there, go straight to find Untitled 5.7, then Catapult 5.7 just beyond a tree in a corner, or hike up "The Platform" on your Right to find Cross Bow 5.5, Sabre 5.6, and War Hammer 5.8.
Note that "The Platform" may not be a safe area for kids or dogs depending on age and behavior.
Classic Climbing Routes at Armory Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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