|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade IV|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||jyount on Aug 19, 2010|
|Comments on Armed Robbery||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ted Farley
From: Bozeman, Mt
May 4, 2011
|isn't this a north facing route?|
Jul 23, 2011
|No, it's south facing.|
By Charlie Jonas
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Jul 28, 2014
|Sustained and spicy 5.8+?! I haven't climbed this yet but this rating sounds like maybe we should just give in little a call it 5.9. Its kinda like when someone orders a steak and asks for it in-between medium-rare and medium. The distinction is just too small and ambiguous to exsist.|
By Bart Young
From: Jackson, WY
Jul 29, 2014
Did this route 2 days ago. We used Gams' Teton Rock Climbs book which was good but lacked a bit of clarity.
P1) Starts in the clean left facing, jagged corner as the book says. Goes up lesser quality rock to the left then back right to the base of a white pedestal with a bush. Belay here. Short pitch.
P2) Climb up the face above the pedestal to the right of horizontal cracks. Aim for the left facing corner formed by the arête on your right. Climb the corner, continue up and left via easy face climbing. We belayed from a large ledge slinging a big diving board-style rock as an anchor.
P3) Straight up off the belay using right leaning hand crack for pro. Continue straight up on easy terrain to a series of broad ledges. Climb the short 5.8 right facing corner to another huge ledge. I slung a large block for the belay.
P4) The "column" is straight above you. Go left up the corner/ramp. Traverse back to right over the 1st roof. Move straight up the right side of the 2nd roof. I recall that a #1 camalot could've been placed somewhere low on the climbers left here but the gear is marginal however you slice it. Move back left over the top of the 2nd roof towards the hand crack. Don't fall. Jam the hand crack making one last tricky move over the bulge to the belay.
P5) Climb up the hand crack working left past a couple of roofs. I "misplaced"the belay at a comfortable 1 x 2 foot ledge below the 2nd roof. However, 20 ft higher a giant ledge is available for the belay.
P6) Work left up a ramp, then head up and right over 5.7ish moves. Aim for a giant dihedral that looms up and right. Belay where comfortable.
P7) In my opinion, the best pitch of the climb but oddly given no description in the book. Somehow get into the giant corner. Jam and stem the 5.7/5.8 hand fist crack corner. Great movement with awesome exposure. So good! Top out on a giant ledge taking care not to knock rocks on your belayer. Belay the 2nd and scramble 50ft to the summit.
By Michael Azevedo
1 day ago
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I just did this climb this past weekend, and I wanted to say a couple things about it.
First, I've climbed a fair amount in the Tetons, and I would rate this as quite a good climb if you're cool with climbing in more remote locations. It's steeper than most Teton climbs, sustained for the grade (which I thought was a touch sandbagged), high quality rock (95% of the climb), and good pro (except for the R section), and some fun jamming! Pitch for pitch, definitely better and more sustained than the Snaz. That being said, I would recommend this climb if you're SOLID 5.9, maybe 5.10 leader. I wouldn't recommend it for someone who doesn't have a good head for multipitch/exposure/scarce gear.
A couple other tid bits:
I would HIGHLY recommend a 70m rope. I did it with a 60m and felt that we came up short every single pitch, and this forced us to use less than ideal belays and/or do short pitches that consumed time. This was quite annoying, and I'm not certain Gams topo would even works with a 60m. Maybe we just screwed something up.
I would recommend dubs .3 to 3, and good helping of runners unless you're super solid at the grade (I consider myself a pretty solid 5.10 leader). Having a second 3 was quite helpful, and placed it almost every pitch or on the anchor.
Hope this actually helpful to some. Have fun and send it!
- Michael Azevedo