A short walk from the main area of Main Cliff, this wall is a sub-section of Main Cliff that deserves its own description. I've titled the description after its most popular route, Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication (5.10b), one of many worthwhile climbs in this section. This area has seen many new routes and a few retro-bolted routes since the last guidebook was published. The climbing is varied but typically pumpy and encountering steepness somewhere on the route. Yet another wall of awesome 5.10s (and more) without having to hike your butt off.... gotta love Rumney.
Other than Armed and Dangerous (the full name is rarely uttered in decent conversation), some great routes are, Cereal Killer (5.11c), Scene of the Crime (5.10a), Sesame Street (5.10c, recently fully bolted) and more.
Look for signs as to whether this section is closed for nesting peregrines in the spring and summer.
From Main Cliff proper, hike left/west along the cliff base climbing down a steep section of trail and up a little till you see the cliff most note worth will be the overhang atop the slab and the cave under Cereal Killer.
A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list. Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason. Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size. If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves.To the right of the start of ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
Hi! I left a black northface primaloft jacket at the base on cereal killer on sunday. When I returned to retrieve it, it was gone (along with my food bag which had lots of cookies). Please let me know if you have any information on this - my email is firstname.lastname@example.org. Thanks!!!
There is a white buttress at the top of this cliff. When you climb all the pitches of The Big Easy you finish right below it, are there any climbs that go through this buttress? It looks like it could be cool.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 11, 2010
Yes. That is where Slick originally finished. It is my understanding from talking to Tim Gotwols, that he did the FA of that pitch. It follows a seam diagonaling up and right using gear and a pin or two. I have only TRed it in my boots while rapping in to do stuff below, but it seemed about 9+, pumpy and the gear is not very good. He OKed retroing it and since the middle pitch got obliterated when the big flake came off, I thought it would make a great finish for The Big Easy. I have not had a chance to do the retro job (it's turning into a multi year project) as it is up high over everybody and it is hard to find a time to do it when nobody is below. I am hoping to get to it later in the year when other cliffs that I am working on have closed in for the season
A 3-pitch moderate route all the way up to the top of that white buttress would be fantastic. Stellar. It sounds like one can assess this pitch from Sesame Street, P2 of Big Easy, or Bourbon Street, right?
After pitch one of The Big Easy, you get some fun moves which branch either to Bourbon Street or up to the top of Sesame Street. I believe the new guidebook calls the short scamper to the top of Sesame Street pitch 2 of The Big Easy. You can easily climb the first half of Sesame Street and pop up onto the ledge after the first pitch of The Big Easy... but you'll miss the best part of Sesame Street (in my opinion).
The pitch above Sesame Street ("pitch 3" on The Big Easy) is pretty easy ground. It wouldn't be too difficult to traverse over to the crux of Bourbon Street and continue up the easy ground which follows that. Both routes can give you access to the white buttress above.
With all the bolts below... it's kind of odd to drag up a light trad rack for the final pitch up the white buttress, but oh well. I bet no one would miss 3 or 4 bolts from the top half of Bourbon Street if they were moved. :) Nonetheless, fun to get above the often crowded area below.
I noticed that there are 3 new routes on the far right side of this cliff. 2 of them are listed on MP, but there seems to be another 5.10 as well. I'm not sure if the one listed (Far From Feral) is the left 5.10 or the right 5.10 of the two. Does anyone have any information?
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 30, 2012
I was asked to post the 2 routes that were complete... if you read the description for Far From Feral it explains that there is to be a variation start to the right... this is said to be a good bit easier...
so for all practical purposes the info is all here, enjoy!
What I did was a completely different climb about 10 feet over from Far From Feral. If a completely separate route is considered a variation... well, OK, but that seems odd to me.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 2, 2012
just telling you what was reported to me... 3 new lines added, the right being independent the two on the left starting 10 feet apart and sharing their easy finish... if you have better or different info please post it up...
Ah yep that was certainly the route we really enjoyed that one!
And yes Matt! Thanks for the warm welcome!! We had a blast but we're still getting a feel for the outdoors. Been tackling every 5.8 and 9 we see and we're gonna ramp it up to 10a/b the weekend after turkey day! Slow and steady since we still quite green :)