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 ADVANCED
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S,TR 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha (open project) S 
Metamorphosis S 
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner) S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.80203, -71.83678 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,825
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 23, 2007
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Old photo overview of Main C Left. Climber on lef...

Description 

A short walk from the main area of Main Cliff, this wall is a sub-section of Main Cliff that deserves its own description.
I've titled the description after its most popular route, Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication (5.10b), one of many worthwhile climbs in this section. This area has seen many new routes and a few retro-bolted routes since the last guidebook was published. The climbing is varied but typically pumpy and encountering steepness somewhere on the route. Yet another wall of awesome 5.10s (and more) without having to hike your butt off.... gotta love Rumney.

Other than Armed and Dangerous (the full name is rarely uttered in decent conversation), some great routes are, Cereal Killer (5.11c), Scene of the Crime (5.10a), Sesame Street (5.10c, recently fully bolted) and more.

Look for signs as to whether this section is closed for nesting peregrines in the spring and summer.

Getting There 

From Main Cliff proper, hike left/west along the cliff base climbing down a steep section of trail and up a little till you see the cliff most note worth will be the overhang atop the slab and the cave under Cereal Killer.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.0 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',6],['5.9',6],['5.10',8],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left):
Rainbow   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Big Easy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches   
The Maltese Falcon   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   
Toxic Gumbo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 80'   
The Anchovy Caper   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   
Mentally Disturbed   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Metamorphosis   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Men In White Suits   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   
Panama Hat (aka Mister Meaner)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Green Mile   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Arugula, Arugula   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 50'   
Juicy Fingers   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad   
Scene of the Crime   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Sesame Street   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   
Clusterphobia   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   
Maria's Variation   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad   
Flying Squirrel   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Climb and Punishment   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport   
Cereal Killer   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)

Featured Route For Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Lindsay Duca stylin' through the crux of Armed and...

Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...
A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list. Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason. Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size. If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves.To the right of the start of ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left) Slideshow Add Photo
This area has changed a bit since the last guidef ...
BETA PHOTO: This area has changed a bit since the last guidef ...
Old piton sticking font and center, a shiny bolt d...
Old piton sticking font and center, a shiny bolt d...

Comments on Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2014
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 28, 2007
thanks for all the added info on the new routes in this area Mark...
By Hannah W
Oct 26, 2009
Hi! I left a black northface primaloft jacket at the base on cereal killer on sunday. When I returned to retrieve it, it was gone (along with my food bag which had lots of cookies). Please let me know if you have any information on this - my email is hwaight@gmail.com.
Thanks!!!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 26, 2009
Hannah see the lost and found section of the forums i think you will find the lost clothing through there.

Hannah I sent you an email with the persons email, hope you find the jacket
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 11, 2010
There is a white buttress at the top of this cliff. When you climb all the pitches of The Big Easy you finish right below it, are there any climbs that go through this buttress? It looks like it could be cool.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 11, 2010
Yes. That is where Slick originally finished. It is my understanding from talking to Tim Gotwols, that he did the FA of that pitch. It follows a seam diagonaling up and right using gear and a pin or two. I have only TRed it in my boots while rapping in to do stuff below, but it seemed about 9+, pumpy and the gear is not very good. He OKed retroing it and since the middle pitch got obliterated when the big flake came off, I thought it would make a great finish for The Big Easy. I have not had a chance to do the retro job (it's turning into a multi year project) as it is up high over everybody and it is hard to find a time to do it when nobody is below. I am hoping to get to it later in the year when other cliffs that I am working on have closed in for the season
By S. Neoh
Aug 11, 2010
A 3-pitch moderate route all the way up to the top of that white buttress would be fantastic. Stellar. It sounds like one can assess this pitch from Sesame Street, P2 of Big Easy, or Bourbon Street, right?

I really miss P2 of Rock du Jour. Great pitch.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 12, 2010
After pitch one of The Big Easy, you get some fun moves which branch either to Bourbon Street or up to the top of Sesame Street. I believe the new guidebook calls the short scamper to the top of Sesame Street pitch 2 of The Big Easy. You can easily climb the first half of Sesame Street and pop up onto the ledge after the first pitch of The Big Easy... but you'll miss the best part of Sesame Street (in my opinion).

The pitch above Sesame Street ("pitch 3" on The Big Easy) is pretty easy ground. It wouldn't be too difficult to traverse over to the crux of Bourbon Street and continue up the easy ground which follows that. Both routes can give you access to the white buttress above.

With all the bolts below... it's kind of odd to drag up a light trad rack for the final pitch up the white buttress, but oh well. I bet no one would miss 3 or 4 bolts from the top half of Bourbon Street if they were moved. :) Nonetheless, fun to get above the often crowded area below.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 30, 2012
I noticed that there are 3 new routes on the far right side of this cliff. 2 of them are listed on MP, but there seems to be another 5.10 as well. I'm not sure if the one listed (Far From Feral) is the left 5.10 or the right 5.10 of the two. Does anyone have any information?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 30, 2012
I was asked to post the 2 routes that were complete...
if you read the description for Far From Feral it explains that there is to be a variation start to the right... this is said to be a good bit easier...

so for all practical purposes the info is all here, enjoy!
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Jun 1, 2012
What I did was a completely different climb about 10 feet over from Far From Feral. If a completely separate route is considered a variation... well, OK, but that seems odd to me.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 2, 2012
just telling you what was reported to me... 3 new lines added, the right being independent the two on the left starting 10 feet apart and sharing their easy finish... if you have better or different info please post it up...
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Jun 4, 2012
You got it, Lee, thanks!

EDIT: I was contacted by the person who put up these routes, and they will be handling it. Thanks!
By Ben Dubs
Nov 19, 2012
Not sure if an answer to this is listed elsewhere but there is a 3 bolt to anchor route to the left of Anchovy Caper, anyone know the rating for this/what this is called?
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 19, 2012
Yeah I would say Bonnie and Clyde and it goes at 5.8.

P.S. IS this the Ben I met at Lago the other night while I was working? If so how was you trip?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 19, 2012
yup thats bonnie and clyde... one of the bolts is hard to see from the ground... might have been why you thought there were only 3...
By Ben Dubs
Nov 20, 2012
Ah yep that was certainly the route we really enjoyed that one!

And yes Matt! Thanks for the warm welcome!! We had a blast but we're still getting a feel for the outdoors. Been tackling every 5.8 and 9 we see and we're gonna ramp it up to 10a/b the weekend after turkey day! Slow and steady since we still quite green :)
By Caleb Ladue
From: Vt, Charlotte
Apr 3, 2014
Found some P cord underneath The Anchovy Caper. If was underneath a little overhang. If it's yours message me and I'll return it as it looked pretty new. Otherwise great booty find!