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 ADVANCED
5.8 Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack by the Road, The T 
Arm and Hammer S 
Asbury Park S 
Blue Spotted Tail TR 
Blueballs at Christmas T 
Bolt And Run S 
Central Park TR 
Chimney of Doom T 
Granny's Route S 
License to Ill T 
Milksnake T 
Milktoast S 
Moe Pup Sensation S 
Only a Crow S 
Pump Up the Volume S 
Raven S 
Romancing The Snake T 
Romancing the Stone S 
Sky Pilot T,S 
Snake Skin Slab S 
Terrace, The S 

Arm and Hammer 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1988
Page Views: 2,237
Submitted By: Patrick Bagley on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Nick sticking the micro-crimps at the beginning
Note: New route moratorium area. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The business of Arm and Hammer is definitely crimps, however a the slabby exit moves will be memorable nonetheless. Some of the hardest moves are right off the ground, so stick clip that first bolt!


Location 

This route is towards the right end of 5.8 Crag. A+H is just to the right of sky pilot which stands out because it is only bolted to the halfway point. edit- Sky is now all bolted


Protection 

5 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Arm and Hammer Slideshow Add Photo
Tristan resting on the money jugs before the hard part
Tristan resting on the money jugs before the hard ...
Comments on Arm and Hammer Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2013
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 6, 2009

anymore information about location of this route because the second bolted line coming down is The Raven(5.8)... is it just left of The Raven?

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 6, 2009

Check out this photo that Lee annotated.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 6, 2009

Thanks I feel stupid for not seeing that haha

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

There is no way on God's green earth that this thing is 11b! If Tropicana is 11a, this thing is at least 11d. Maybe bc the FA was in 1988? Not sure, but way harder than the suggested grade. I've been on 12s easier than this thing. That said, the movement on this route is amazing and fun.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 28, 2009

I heard that something broke on this. I haven't been on it in a couple of years (and at that time 11b felt right). Does anyone have more info about a possible broken hold?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 28, 2009

Ive done it every year for the last 5, 6, 7 years and didnt notice any change... but yeah you do have to work for it mostly down low on the micro crimps... and i havent done it this year yet so we shall see...

By christopher adams
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The hold that was used to clip the first bolt broke off a few years ago (see obvious dark spot directly below first bolt). It was much better than the micro crimps afforded now, and served as a much better lock off point to the next moves, as well as a better foothold.

In my opinion, it's closer to 11c now.

By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Apr 4, 2010

Business is indeed at the bottom. Trend left past the third bolt even though it looks better to the right. FWIW, the new guide has this at .11c

By S. Neoh
Aug 26, 2010

For me, this route is harder than Sky Pilot for sure. Believe it or not, this route was rated 11a for years BITD. Yeah, Tom grades old-school. :) FYI - I was told the name A & H alludes to hand drilling the holes for the original bolts. Common practice and hard work BITD.
The route is a crimpers delight.

By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Oct 31, 2010

Originally this route had ONE bolt. I forget who placed it. Tom Armstrong dialed it on TR then led it then retro bolted it for the rest of us.

By DBR
From: Norwich, VT
Sep 23, 2011

I think this would be fine at 11b although the guidebook 11c made me feel good. The crimp moves on social distortion are MUCH harder, and venus is a league above that.

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Whoops, years later, guess I was on Pump Up The Volume. Yeah, this thing's prolly 11a...

By Rajiv Ayyangar
From: Portland, ME
Apr 13, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Dude, change your rating then. Or get back here and climb this rig if you actually haven't. Basically, get back here.

By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Jul 17, 2013

I haven't climbed enough 11s to chime in on the grade discussion...but this route is great and safely bolted! Get on it and don't be intimidated, the stances for all the bolts are good. and the movement is fantastic! Straight-forward fun crimping

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 18, 2013

Great route with some tough moves along the way. A fun section just before the anchors as well. Please update the "location" part of this description - there are 3 or 4 routes up hill from this. :)

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 18, 2013

updated jeff... so demanding :P