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Lake Lincoln

Submitted By: CJ Gates on Aug 18, 2008
Elevation: 1,200 feet
Latitude: 35.9983  Longitude: -94.4270 
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Description 

This little crag sits about 30-40 minutes west of Fayetteville. It is dark and dirty but there are some great climbs here. It is cold in the winter and muggy in the summer here so probably best for sending hard in the colder months. Also, watch for huge snakes and spiders in the summer as they crave fresh meat. You will encounter lots of fisherman and a few other climbers from time to time since it is so close to the Fayetteville area. Total roped climbs number around 40 or so. The climbing ranges from easy 5.4 to hard 5.13 with (I think) at least one route needing a FFA that is supposedly hard 5.13. There is also some bouldering to be found and some that is still to be or in process of being developed. As far as camping goes I believe you can for free but I wouldn't want to nor would I like getting chased by a man with a chainsaw or maybe a machete. It is your choice though so party down and try not to add to the trash that is already there or you could grab a few items each time when you leave. That would be nice.


Getting There 

There are several ways to get there. I will give one from Fayetteville: Take Hwy 16 west out of Fayetteville. Drive past Lake Weddington another 5-10 miles. In a very sharp right hand bend on Hwy 16 you will take a left on N. Jackson Hwy or Hwy 669 heading south. Follow this road until you come up to Lake Lincoln on your left. Turn left down a little dirt road and park in the parking area that is on your right. You can also cross the creek and park there as well. You can also see the map coordinates attached here. This road (Hwy 669) will take you all the way in to the town of Lincoln if you go too far.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lake Lincoln:
Unknown   V5-6     Boulder   North Side : Pyramid Boulder
The Quest for the Sticky Stuff   5.9     Sport, 40 feet   North Side : Dead Man's Wall
Testicle Fortitude   5.9     Trad, 35 feet   North Side : Tafoni Wall
Lincoln it Up   5.9     Sport, 35 feet   North Side : 5.8 Wall
Aracnaphobia   5.10a     Sport, 35 feet   North Side : Dead Man's Wall
Paco's Taco   5.10b     Sport, 35 feet   North Side : Dead Man's Wall
Jesus at The Anchors   5.10d     Sport, 50 feet   South Side : Hang Over Wall
Box Canyon   5.10d     Sport, 35 feet   North Side : Box Canyon
Hung in the Fence   5.11a     Sport, 35 feet   North Side : Howard's Wall
Ghetto Blaster   5.11a/b V2     Sport, Boulder, 35 feet   South Side : Number 8 Wall
Charlie Don't Surf   5.11c     Sport, 30 feet   North Side : 13 Wall
13 Crack   5.12a     Trad, 35 feet   North Side : 13 Wall
Browse More Classics in Lake Lincoln